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  #1  
Old 07-12-2007, 05:57 PM
itwonder itwonder is offline
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Default Ultra Gray or Ultra Black RTV for Oil Pan?

Is there a consensus as to which one works better for the oil pan seal, Ultra Black RTV or the Ultra Gray "rigid high torque" RTV? The black calls for tightening finger tight, waiting for it to set, then torque to final value. The gray calls for torque to final value right after installation. Both have been mentioned in prior posts. Both are sensor safe.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:18 PM
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I used the blackstuff that came with my rod bearing kit when I did mine. No leaks so far.

Jeremy
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:17 PM
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likewise.
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:39 AM
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I used the black but on the V8 the gray is what came from the factory. Supposedly the gray is for close tolerance machined surfaces?
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOZ123 View Post
I used the black but on the V8 the gray is what came from the factory. Supposedly the gray is for close tolerance machined surfaces?
Likewise the factory stuff on my V6 appears to be gray...but it may or may not be the same as Permatex Ultra Gray. According to the data sheet, the gray is a heavier body RTV and can be torqued to final value immediately. I imagine that characteristic appeals to repair shops. Permatex lists both as suitable for oil pans.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2011, 06:44 PM
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Bump

Bob, what did you end up using?

I used the ultra black the "wrong" way (tightened pan all the way and called it good) and it leaked.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:54 PM
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I've used the black with good results more than a few times. My MTX doesn't leak a drop!


(kidding, used it on the oil pan)
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:05 AM
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I used the Permatex Ultra Black, and followed these instructions, excerpted from their TDS dated 2006, except as noted:

5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one
surface (the OP), first tracing the internal areas (around inside of bolt holes) of the gasket
configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes.
6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet.
7. Finger tighten flange only until material begins to seep
out the sides of the flange.
8. Allow to set for at least two hours (I waited about 4 hours by circumstance) and re-torque at least
one quarter to one half turn (I torqued to specified value).
9. For best results, allow to cure overnight (oil drain plug removed so air can circulate).

During dry fitting, I rubbed a Sharpie on the rubber gaskets, and the ink transferred to the OP flange when I held it in place. That way I knew exactly where the RTV bead need to go to meet the rubber gasket.

Seemed to work! No leaks, knock on wood.

Last edited by itwonder; 04-06-2011 at 12:08 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-06-2011, 08:42 AM
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I also used the black RTV when I did bearings on my 95 MTX. No leaks from the pan.
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:23 AM
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I personally like the Ultra Copper RTV whenever the bond is between aluminum & aluminum (valve covers/head) or aluminum and another metal like the oil pan to block. It provides a dissimilar metal contact which is always preferable for long term sealing ability. The same principle is behind why it is preferable to use a copper anti-seize on spark plugs installed in aluminum heads.

Another great sealant for the oil pan is "hylomar". But the Permatex version is inferior to the original UK brand.

My 2 cents...
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  #11  
Old 04-06-2011, 10:50 AM
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What he said ^

Permatex Hylomar is like KY, dries up too fast and then your left standing there with sticky fingers wondering why you paid out the butt for a crappy product.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2011, 12:22 PM
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I have installed many pans with the Ultra Black.
No leaks.

I also agree with peter on the copper anti sieze!
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2011, 12:40 PM
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I will be using the ultra black (I did the first time as well) but I will try following Permatex's directions for it this time.
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