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  #1  
Old 05-26-2007, 02:11 PM
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Default *PICTURES* Remove , replace fuel pump and fuel filter, no floor cutting!!

This is a step by step on how to remove your fuel pump and fuel filter. Because the fuel pump is an in-tank unit you will have to drop your fuel tank out of the car.You will need:
a) jack stands
b) a floor jack
c) various tools which will be covered in the rest of this post
d) basic mechanical knowledge
e) new fuel pump, new fuel filter (unless recently replaced), and a new fuel pump strainer.

So here we go... keep in mind i live outside of town so your car may not be so muddy underneath.
Step 1) Make sure your tank is as empty as possible. But if you can't empty the tank, like me because my car actually died, then you can siphon the tank. This will be explained in step 4. Start by parking your car, preferably on cement or pavement, and put it in gear (manual transmission). Then put the e-brake on, and then put blocks of wood in front of the front tires for added safety from the car rolling off the jack stands.

Step 2) You will need the floor jack and jack stands for this step. I used the point shown in picture (1) to jack my car from. Once you have placed the floor jack on a strong point, jack it up on one side to your desired height and place a jack stand under the car on the same side. I placed my jack stands under the lower suspension linkage, shown in picture (2), and didn't have any problems. Then repeat the process on the other side of your car until both sides have jack stands under them.
.


Step 3)Lay under your car and look at the rear passenger side of the gas tank and you will a small hose and a large hose. You can see this in picture (3). The small hose is your tank vent hose and the large one is the tank filler hose. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the small hose. Do the same on the large hose. You can see a tank strap bolt at point (a).

.

Step 4) If you still have lots of gas in your tank (I had a 1/2 tank) then you can siphon it out. I siphoned the tank through my tank vent hose which you will have to seperate from the metal piping as seen in picture (4).The siphon I used is shown in picture (5). If you don't know how to siphon then look it up on the internet.

.


Step 5) Remove the hose going to the back of your fuel filter. Your filter is in front of your gas tank on the passenger side and should look like the one in picture (6). The hose will have a clip on it that you can open with a flat-bladed screwdriver. If you are replacing your filter too then remove the clamp until it seperates so you can pull the filter out of it's bracket.


Step 6) Place a floor jack under your tank with a piece of wood between the jack and the tank so you do not damage your gas tank. Put the jack in from the drivers side so the tank can tip out towards the passengers side, as it will cathc on the drivers side exhaust piping. Remove your tank strap bolts. To find these follow the straps under your gas tank towards the back of the car. Spray them with some kind of lubricant first such as WD-40. DO NOT use a 12 point socket to remove the bolts. I did this and I rounded off the head on one of my bolts. I then had to use a grinder to cut off the head of the bolt which wasted alot of time. Keep in mind that I live in Alberta, Canada so rust is everywhere around here. Hopefully your bolts are clean and rust free so they come out easier than mine did.

Step 7) Assuming your bolts came out, slowly lower you floor jack a few inches at a time while checking the passengers side regularly to make sure that no hoses are going to catch. As you lower the tank push it gently towards the front of the car to seperate the tank filler hose and vent hose from the cars metal piping. Lower the tank as far as you can without risking a plastic hose breaking off of the top of the tank. Then proceed to remove the plastic hoses and electrical clip from the top of the tank. The tank with all plastic hoses removed can be seen in picture (7).The rubber ended hoses seen at point (a) will seperate from the white plastic vent. Just gently pull and twist until they come off.


Step 8) You should see a ring surrounding the the pump sending unit as outlined in red in picture (8). It will have several tabs sticking straight up. Place a flat bladed screwdriver against one of the tabs and hit the screwdriver with a hammer so that the ring rotates counter-clockwise. (I think that it rotates counter-clockwise, you will be able to tell fairly quickly if it doesn't move.) Be careful not to stab yourself or break off the electrical connection with the screwdriver if it slips off of the tab.


Step 9) Once the ring is removed, CAREFULLY remove the assembly from your tank without breaking any plastic or bending your fuel level arm. The removed assembly can be seen in picture (9). You can also see the pump in the picture.


Step 10) Remove the 2 electrical connectors from the top of the pump itself. They should be a black and a red wire. Note which way they were attached to the the pump. Remove the pump strainer from the bottom of the pump. Hopefully you bought a new one so that you don't have to be too careful with this step. You can remove it by pulling on it or prying it off with a screwdriver. I set myself back a few days at this point by breaking my strainer and not having a new one handy. Now carefully remove the pump from the assembly. I had to insert a screwdriver at point (a) in picture (10) and pry on it to get the old pump out.


Step 11) Put in the new pump and hook up the electrical connectors. Then put the new strainer on the pump as the old one was. If your fuel pump came with a new tank seal o-ring then replace that at this time. Then carefully put the pump assembly back into the tank positioned the same way as it was before you took it out. Tighten the locking ring back onto the top of the pump assembly so that it is secured in the tank. Then slide you tank back under the car and lift it on top of the floor jack. Hook up all of your plastic hoses and the electrical connector clip on top of the tank. DOUBLE CHECK to make sure that you have everything hooked up. Jack the tank back into place and hook up your tank filler and tank vent hose. Then put your tank strap bolts back in. I bought new strap bolts and the clips that they bolt into just to be safe. I would have bought new straps but my left one is $20 and my rightone is $120! Figure that one out. YOU'RE DONE! Lower your car off of the jack stands and refill your gas tank if you had to siphon it out. It may take a few seconds for the car to get fuel to the motor while you are cranking it. If everything worked out then you should be driving your car away as a happy, or very frustrated, individual.

If you have any questions just ask or email me at trevor_bayne@hotmail.com

Enjoy!
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2007, 09:54 PM
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Nice work Trevor, the write up you did is even better.

Thanks!!
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Old 05-26-2007, 10:13 PM
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Awesome write-up...

Allthough, I still support the access panel 100%. I'll never drop another SHO tank.
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Old 05-27-2007, 04:28 PM
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its probably not a bad idea to clean the tank out while you have it out, I just had major problems with my mustang because of crap in the tank. Buy some gas tank cleaner pour it in and swish it around to clean all the junk out. Great writeup though, this should get a sticky
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:13 AM
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Yeah i'm not going to lie, I felt like cutting a hole in my floor a few times during the process. But it could have been worse. The one thing I would be worried about is the floor panel leaking water and rusting out my floor. But I suppose if you seal it up with weatherstripping or silicone or something then it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:52 AM
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Very nice. before anyone trys to undertake this project in this fashion, they need to realize that if you have SFC's, your tank wont drop.
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:03 AM
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Ford got smart with the Contour and added an access under the rear seat.
Nice 'how to'.
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:25 PM
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very nice write up

loving the mudflaps too, where can you find those?
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:26 PM
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nice write up

and nice mud guards too, where can i find some like that?
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:20 PM
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True if you have the SFC the tank wont drop but doesnt the access door project involve cutting. Cutting makes sparks with a wheel. How can you make the door without cutting with a wheel or torching?
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:04 PM
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The new way of cutting through the floor is much easier and faster. Both can pose a danger to the mechanic.

I have been installing fuel pumps through floor ever since I found out about it. MUCH easier, less hassles. Especially if you have a rusty car.
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:23 AM
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Is that a build sheet in picture 8?
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Old 08-18-2007, 09:13 AM
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with my fuel tank cutout i have that i bought my SHO with, has saved my ass a few times already. i have had the fuel pump out three times in 4 months, and 2 days ago i had to replace it cause it died, 20 minutes with the modification and i just sat comfy in my backseat, really worth cutting out and making a door.
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHO Continental View Post
Is that a build sheet in picture 8?
+1 good eye

Thanks for the write up!
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Old 11-03-2007, 06:21 PM
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good job im doing my replacement right now.
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Old 02-07-2008, 11:26 AM
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Anyone know what year Contours have the access panel, off hand? Did they use an access panel, or a large grommet-plug?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrecoolgar View Post
Ford got smart with the Contour and added an access under the rear seat.
Nice 'how to'.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:51 PM
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*Beating the Dead Horse with a rusty wooden mallot* (think about that one....)

Yes, what year(s) did Ford start to do that with the access panel in the floor for the fuel pump... I'd like to see if I could adapt one to fit my Sho.. :P
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keny_kimmel View Post
True if you have the SFC the tank wont drop but doesnt the access door project involve cutting. Cutting makes sparks with a wheel. How can you make the door without cutting with a wheel or torching?
I used tin snips.

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