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Old 04-30-2007, 09:28 PM
MI95SHO MI95SHO is offline
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Default Brake Line Bypass?

So I finally got the '92 running and as I pull her up to the garage I blew a brake line right above what im assuming is a brake reply box, Its a 1x3" black box attached to the driver side wheel well and 3 of the brake lines come from the power brakes and enter from the top of the box, then 3 leave the bottom to go to the wheels. Hopefully you know what Im referring to now. Well the line on the top of that box broke, and I donít have the time to put into her to repair what will end up all of the brake lines anyway, so Can I just crimp off that line that was blown? Or will all the other lines just bleed out through that line?
Thanks
(Not looking for the safe way to do it right now, just so I have brakes as the '92 isnt my DD)
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:29 PM
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Um, that's the ABS pump you're referring to. I don't know what that brake line does, but I would assume it's fairly important.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:34 PM
MI95SHO MI95SHO is offline
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Thats a pump? Are you sure? its pretty dang small, honestly it looks just like a relay for the brake lines from the wheels to attach up to. Just enough to hold the 3 lines screwing into the bottom of it
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:44 PM
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Quick mock up of what im talkin about
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:41 PM
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i know what you're talking about... i replaced all the steel lines from that box back. i'd bet that you'll lose the fluid if you just crimp it and let it sit. i blew a line (doing 78ish on the highway after some jackass cut me off ) and tried something similar. i actually drove about 8 miles (mostly highway) to get home with a vise grip pinching off one of the lines near the bias valve. thank god for engine braking. once i got it home i didn't feel like working on it and just let it sit like that overnight, and when i got out to it again in the morning the fluid reservoir was dry...
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:08 AM
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What you are talking about is this part:



The box on the right is 1 x 3 and is black...its located below the airbox towards the rear of the engine compartment by the fender well. It is a junction where all the brake lines go from the ABS control box to the rest of the car.

Answers:

1: NO you cant just crimp the broken line off. That is unless you are not in love with stopping your car.

2: It would be very hard to fix this with anything from the autoparts store. The bends are very complicated. HOwever, if you go to the local pick a part, you will find this very same set up on the Mercury Sables of the same year as well as the SHO's. THe car you need would have to have antilock brakes.

I paid like 8 bucks for a replacement of what you see in the picture. I call it the octopus
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-22 Raptor SHO


The box on the right is 1 x 3 and is black...its located below the airbox towards the rear of the engine compartment by the fender well. It is a junction where all the brake lines go from the ABS control box to the rest of the car.

Answers:

1: NO you cant just crimp the broken line off. That is unless you are not in love with stopping your car.

2: It would be very hard to fix this with anything from the autoparts store. The bends are very complicated. HOwever, if you go to the local pick a part, you will find this very same set up on the Mercury Sables of the same year as well as the SHO's. THe car you need would have to have antilock brakes.

I paid like 8 bucks for a replacement of what you see in the picture. I call it the octopus
Correct image, incorrect information.


The blown line is one of six lines called the ABS Bundle Assembly. It includes both lines that lead from the master cylinder to the ABS pump, and the four lines that lead from the ABS pump to each of the four brakes. Three of the four brake-specific lines from the ABS pump pass through that black distribution block - the right front, left rear, and right rear.

If it's one of the rear lines, you can temporarily crimp-off the line and will probably not notice any difference in normal driving and braking (less than a 10-percent loss in braking). If it's the line leading to the the right-front, you will have to repair or replace the line. Which line it is can easily be traced from underneath the vehicle. While it is driveable, it is unsafe and I would not recommend driving for any reason (the vehicle will pull sharply left if you panic-brake). So you have a 2-in-3 probability that you can temporaily close-off the line while you locate a replacement - if it is one of the two rear brakes lines.

Would I drive it this way as a daily driver - depends on where you drive. If it was in an area with heavy stop-and-go traffic - no. If it is in a rural area or small city/town with light traffic - only as necessary to get it repair or find/buy parts. Remember, another line could blow - so regardless of whether it is a daily driver or not, the risk is in blowing another major line - not whether it is dangerous to drive on three brakes.

The "assembly" is no longer available through Ford. It listed for ~$100 before being discontinued. I do not know of a current source, other than salvage yards. This is yet another Achilles Heal of the Taurus/Taurus SHO, as it is used in all the Taurus/Sables with ABS brakes.

If you have (or have access to) the proper tube bending tools, the line can be easily replicated. The difficult part of this is the removal, replacement of the bundle assembly due to it's location, the proper bleeding of the ABS pump (which will be required if the entire assembly is removed), and the lack of availability of the black insulation sheath used on the lines.

Realize this it the first of what will become a reoccuring problem, until all the lines are replaced. Once you fix one line, it has been my experience that the next line-leak develops within 1-6 months, when the next weakest-link blows.

It's late, I check the thread later for follow-up....
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:20 AM
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8 Bucks? Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeez. Do you realize how much flaring, and bending I did to redo my lines. :( If he's in Michigan, my guess is that it will be pretty hard to find.

I installed all new lines, one at a time, and it was a pain. The two long ones that go to the rear, I unioned past all that crusty stuff. The crappy part is bleeding all of it after its done. Took me and a buddy all night to re plumb the whole thing. Wish I coulda gotten one of those for $8.

If your lines arent horrible like mine were, you might be able to crimp in some short peices around that 'box'. And... for loosening those nuts, I got ALL of them loose with a propane torch. Just the right temp for those.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-22 Raptor SHO
What you are talking about is this part:



The box on the right is 1 x 3 and is black...its located below the airbox towards the rear of the engine compartment by the fender well. It is a junction where all the brake lines go from the ABS control box to the rest of the car.

Answers:

1: NO you cant just crimp the broken line off. That is unless you are not in love with stopping your car.

2: It would be very hard to fix this with anything from the autoparts store. The bends are very complicated. HOwever, if you go to the local pick a part, you will find this very same set up on the Mercury Sables of the same year as well as the SHO's. THe car you need would have to have antilock brakes.

I paid like 8 bucks for a replacement of what you see in the picture. I call it the octopus
Yes that little box it what Im talking about, the line blew out right on top of it coming from the power brake/abs system. I do have another one of those systems off another part taurus I have, I was just hoping that I wouldnt need to replace it as its not in prime location and the rest of the lines are in poor shape.
Storm-Chaser, thats really all I want is a temporary fix till I can find out whether the entire car is too far gone or not to get to road worthy status again. So I will probably just crimp/cut and cap that line so there is atleast some braking abilities. Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:37 AM
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yeah, your best bet is replacing all those lines, there are 6 of them. toss an ad up in the wanted to buy section and someone will hook you up.

I just ordered and octopus for my 94 that was rusted badly, I wanted to fix the problem before I crashed.
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Old 05-01-2007, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slickRED89
yeah, your best bet is replacing all those lines, there are 6 of them. toss an ad up in the wanted to buy section and someone will hook you up.

I just ordered and octopus for my 94 that was rusted badly, I wanted to fix the problem before I crashed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MI95SHO
I do have another one of those systems off another part taurus I have, I was just hoping that I wouldnt need to replace it as its not in prime location and the rest of the lines are in poor shape.
Already have one. Thanks thou. Just didnt want to replace it yet untill i know if the car is worth putting the time into (body/subframe pretty rusted out aswell)

Last edited by MI95SHO; 05-01-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:41 AM
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Read my post again. It depends on which line is leaking, as to whether the vehicle can be driven even on a short-term limited basis. If the affected line is the right-front, you should *not* drive the car.

If you already have a replacement, install it. You can always remove it at a later date if you decide not to keep the SHO.
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:00 AM
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ITs not that bad to replace actually. Just have to remove alot of stuff to get at it.

Short time basis it right. You will only be able to drive the car till you need to stop then you will crash. Thats a pretty short time.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:15 PM
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That's funny. I managed to make it all the way back from North Carolina, through Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi - driving through Atlanta, Birmingham, and Tuscaloosa - with an open rear line thus losing both the left-front and right-rear brakes. However, I would never recommend driving with an open line, or the loss of even one front brake. The rears are a different story - losing one isn't noticeable.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm-Chaser View Post
....

[deleted]

The "assembly" is no longer available through Ford. It listed for ~$100 before being discontinued. I do not know of a current source, other than salvage yards. This is yet another Achilles Heal of the Taurus/Taurus SHO, as it is used in all the Taurus/Sables with ABS brakes.

[deleted]

.... It's late, I check the thread later for follow-up....

For those following this thread, the ABS brake line Bundle Assembly is unique to the following year-groups:

1990-92 / $70.70
1993--- / $80.21
1994-95 / $93.07

Having not seen all three together, I suspect it's simply due to minor variations in the mounting, lengths and line-bends of the individual lines.
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm-Chaser View Post
For those following this thread, the ABS brake line Bundle Assembly is unique to the following year-groups:

1990-92 / $70.70
1993--- / $80.21
1994-95 / $93.07

Having not seen all three together, I suspect it's simply due to minor variations in the mounting, lengths and line-bends of the individual lines.
10.00 at your local scrap yard.
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:10 AM
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The pricing was posted for reference information, as all three bundlle assemblies are no longer available from Ford - as I already stated above.

Most are not likely to find the bundle assembly for $10 - even if they can find one.

Personally, if the bundle assemblies were still available from Ford, I would buy a new assembly I know will last 10-15 years, versus a used assembly with no idea of how long it will last before rusting through.

Most people with this problem live in the rust-belt states, were finding a rust-free assembly is highly unlikely. In the absence of knowing how well the brake system was maintain by prior owners, as well as how long the brake system may have been "open" and exposed to moisture and air at the salvage yard, there's no easy way to determine if internal rust is present in any of the lines in a used bundle assembly. Most brake fluids are hydrophilic, which results in internal rusting if the system is left opened for any extended period of time.
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