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Old 04-10-2005, 03:32 PM
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Default Front suspension replacement - removing hub nut/half-shaft

Okay so I have everything torn apart of the front knuckle/spindle except for the hub nut. We have almost every other socket except this 30mm one I need to remove the hub nut.

Now I've obviously never done this before and I'm working off my Chilton's manual and not fully understanding it. But I absolutely DO have to remove this hub nut and everything to get this strut out, correct?? There is also a precautionary statement about removing the half shaft and not pulling it outward as you may damage the internals on the CV joint. Then how does taking this nut off help anything?? I don't exactly understand just what part cannot come outward after removing this nut (ie: I don't know what the "half-shaft" is). Can some give me a better description as to how I need to finish getting this strut off the knuckle? And any idea where I can find a deep well 30mm socket with a 1/2" drive?

I just don't want to go taking this nut off and everything falling apart and end up needing new CV joints........ especially if I don't have to even take this nut off.

Thanks everyone,
Andrew
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:57 PM
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The large socket needed to take the hub nut off is actually a pretty common size, so it's not unusual to see them at Sears, Autozone, etc. Just look around and ask for a hub nut socket, then make certain you get the right size.

Yes, you should take the CV axle out when changing the strut. It may be possible to drop the knuckle off the bottom of the strut without removing it, but IMHO you want the CV axle out of the way so that it doesn't get damaged.

Once the hub nut is off and the knuckle disconnected from the control arm and the tie rod, the knuckle can be separated from the CV axle. You may need a gear puller to pop it out of the knuckle if it's rusted, but they often come out easily. Don't pound it out of the knuckle or you could mushroom the end of the axle enough that you won't be able to get the nut back on (yeah, I've done that before).

A simple trick to help remove the hub nut is to put a screwdriver or something in between a couple of vanes on the brake rotor, and turn it up against the brake caliper and bracket. This will keep the hub from turning when you go to remove the nut. If you plan ahead you can remove the hub nut while the car is on the ground with the weight on the wheels, but if you forget or the car is already on stands and the wheels off, this works well.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old 04-10-2005, 09:22 PM
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I usually borrow the 30mm socket from Autozone.

Eric, I like the idea for keeping the axle from turning while tightening/loosening.
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Old 04-11-2005, 01:03 AM
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when removing hub nuts in the junkyard, i put a pipe wrench around the axle shaft with a 30mm socket, 1/2" rachet, breaker bar and commenced to throw my massive body weight into loosening the nut.
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:31 AM
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I got the 30mm socket from AutoZone and pinch one of my rear control arms between the wheel lugs and the part of the spindle that the brake caliper reasts on. Got it out and was a piece of cake. Only problem is when I removed the driver's side nut I noticed the nut wasn't even tightened and the hub is a little loose inside the spindle. I can wiggle it back and forth and don't recall that being the case when I took apart the passenger's side nut. Aamco last worked on my car when they did my clutch, so I'm going after them if something is wrong. So does it sound like something is screwed up??

Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2005, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92ShoOff
I got the 30mm socket from AutoZone and pinch one of my rear control arms between the wheel lugs and the part of the spindle that the brake caliper reasts on. Got it out and was a piece of cake. Only problem is when I removed the driver's side nut I noticed the nut wasn't even tightened and the hub is a little loose inside the spindle. I can wiggle it back and forth and don't recall that being the case when I took apart the passenger's side nut. Aamco last worked on my car when they did my clutch, so I'm going after them if something is wrong. So does it sound like something is screwed up??

Thanks!
If you drove the car when the hub/axle nut was not tight/properly torqued, it is now time for a new wheel bearing.

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Old 04-17-2005, 01:52 AM
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It's not unusual for the hub to be a little sloppy in the knuckle when it's not loaded (i.e., held together by the hub nut, etc.). It doesn't necessarily mean that anything is amiss.
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Old 04-17-2005, 10:32 AM
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why hasnt anyone said u can change the strut without taking all that stuff off? the thing i did when i did mine was take the caliper loose and hang it away with wire and then stood on the perch the strut sits in and got it to slide off the strut without removing the axle or anything. And the install was just the reverse of above. No need to remove the axle nut and all that stuff. I did it myself and im only about 145 pounds so ya dont need to be super strong althought it would help
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Old 04-17-2005, 09:01 PM
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Okay so looks like I'll be replacing my front bearings now. I'll do the driver's side while I still have it off and I'll have to take the passenger side back apart another time soon and replace it. I may as well get the job done though on the side that's loose while everything is still apart rather than risking it hoping that the nut just needed to be tightened and end up needed to take it back apart and replace the bearing.

And GREENBEAN, I dunno how you did it man. The first night I tackled the front side I didn't have a 30mm socket for the hub nut so I tried and tried to get the assembly off without taking all of that apart. I just don't see how you got that strut out with out taking off that tie rod end and lower arm to allow the spindle to swivle downward. But kudos for you if you were able to it like that because it sure is a lot of work getting the lower arm off the spindle.

Thanks for all your help guys!
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