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  #1  
Old 12-21-2003, 12:40 PM
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Who Makes Napa Chassis Parts?

Hello Everyone,

I was wondering if anyone knows who makes the "Napa Chassis Parts" line for Napa?

I have had excellent luck with the NCP products in the past, and now that I am going to replacing my inner tie rods for the 4th time, I'm thinking about going with them rather than Moog, since I've had Moogs die on me TWICE now. The only problem is the Napa parts are spendy.

A friend of mine that owns a repair shop said I should go with OEM, since they are always better than aftermarket, but who knows, since OEMs aren't greaseable...
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Old 12-21-2003, 09:43 PM
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SHOpar,

Two of the oldest relationships in the automotive industry are; Ford and Firestone Tire, and NAPA and Dana. Both relationships can be traced to the early 1900s.

So, it would be a reasonable guess that "NAPA Chassie Parts" product line is manufactured by Dana, or a Dana owned subsidiary company.

Ask you local NAPA parts store owner, he or she should know for sure.

As for the opinion that OEM is always better than "aftermarket", this simply is not true. If you by a cheap aftermarket "knock-off" produced in Tiawan you will get an inferior product.

Dana, TRW, and Moog, are three of the major OEM suppliers of OEM chassie, steering, suspension, etc. parts. They all have long standing reputations as quality parts manufacturers.

Their aftermarket parts are manufactured to the same, or better, specifications as the OEM parts supplied for manufacture of the original product, and the parts supplied for OEM (dealership) repairs.

Parts sold through a dealership are more expensive because of at least one additional level of profit, and not because they are superior.

If you are going through an inordinate number of inner tie-rod ends it may be the instalation that is the problem, and not the quality of the parts that is the problem.

Are they being properly torqued and spiked? If they are over-torqued, or under torqued, they will not last. rangerj
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Old 12-21-2003, 11:18 PM
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AutoZone carries Dana, so I guess that'd be the same as NAPA, but maybe cheaper?
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Old 12-22-2003, 12:19 AM
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I think it varies -- just like Radio Shack used to put the "Realistic" name on products from Panasonic, Pioneer, JVC, RCA, etc. for years.

I know some of their chassis parts are TRW (especially noticed with bushings, endlinks and such), but others are clearly not.

FWIW, TRW and Moog are both part of Federal Mogul and are often identical parts. Perfect Circle, McQuay Norris, Clevite, Aimco, Raybestos, etc. are all part of Dana.

I'm wondering if there's another problem causing your inner tie rods to fail. I've never seen a Moog inner or outer tie rod on a SHO fail. You are replacing (and properly clamping) the bellowses and connecting the crossover air tube, right?
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:13 PM
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When I just had my front end done I got a good Carquest tie rod end 22.00 compared to the 12.00 one and it was stamped by Moog but in a Car Quest Box.
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Mr. Anonymous:
I'm wondering if there's another problem causing your inner tie rods to fail. I've never seen a Moog inner or outer tie rod on a SHO fail. You are replacing (and properly clamping) the bellowses and connecting the crossover air tube, right?
AFAIK, the inner tie rods have been installed correctly, although I haven't personally installed them myself. The first time around I had a shop replace them while they were doing other maintenance on the car for good measure. The only problem is that these were cheapies from Autozone that died within six months.

The next set (Moog) were installed by another reputable shop under my watchful eye, and I didn't notice anything abnormal about the way they installed them. The passenger side died within a couple months due to a completly blown new Koni on that side. Whenever I would hit a bump just right making a right-hand turn, the steering wheel would shake violently as the wheel bounced up and down. I actually have a video of this happening from a car that was behind me during a track day - talk about scary! I'm sure this was the cause of the second failure. Now the driver's side tie rod is out, which I'm sure was weakened by the violent shaking of the steering wheel with the blown strut.

This time around I am going to do the work myself, so I know it will be done right the first time around. I also want to make sure I use the best parts I can find so I don't have to do the work again.

Thanks for all the information so far!
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
rangerj:
Are they being properly torqued and spiked? If they are over-torqued, or under torqued, they will not last.
What do you mean by "spiked"? I've never heard this term used before

<small>[ December 27, 2003, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: SHOpar ]</small>
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:23 PM
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As manager of a NAPA store, I can tell you with certainty that NAPA carries 2 lines of chassis parts- NAPA Chassis (manufactured for NAPA by DANA), which carries a lifetime warranty and MasterRide (manufactured by McQuay-Norris).

Quote:
SHOpar:
Hello Everyone,

I was wondering if anyone knows who makes the "Napa Chassis Parts" line for Napa?

I have had excellent luck with the NCP products in the past, and now that I am going to replacing my inner tie rods for the 4th time, I'm thinking about going with them rather than Moog, since I've had Moogs die on me TWICE now. The only problem is the Napa parts are spendy.

A friend of mine that owns a repair shop said I should go with OEM, since they are always better than aftermarket, but who knows, since OEMs aren't greaseable...
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Old 12-30-2003, 06:06 PM
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SHOPAR,

After the inner tie-rod/ball joints are torqued (55 to 65 foot lbs)they are prevented from loosening with either a rivet or a coiled pin (roll pin). This is frequently referred to as "Spiking the inner tie rod end".

Some inner tie rod ends are literally "spiked" with a punch on the edge to prevent the tie rod from turning on the "spiked" threads. Ford uses a rivet or roll pin (coiled pin). rangerj
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Old 01-02-2004, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
rangerj:
SHOPAR,

After the inner tie-rod/ball joints are torqued (55 to 65 foot lbs)they are prevented from loosening with either a rivet or a coiled pin (roll pin). This is frequently referred to as "Spiking the inner tie rod end".

Some inner tie rod ends are literally "spiked" with a punch on the edge to prevent the tie rod from turning on the "spiked" threads. Ford uses a rivet or roll pin (coiled pin). rangerj
I just replaced my tie rods with Moog replacements, and there were no pins of any kind included. I found this a bit odd, but went ahead and installed them without. Anybody have the same experience, or care to elaborate on possibly why they didn't include pins??
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