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#1
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Hey everybody,
A few weeks ago I went to the Ford dealer for an oil change and ask if they had synthetic oil... They don't. But the technical advisor didn't recommend it to me for our car. He said that the gas doesn't mix with mineral oil and remains on surface. When we start the car, the fact that the synthetic oil doesn't mix with the gas would prematurely use the bearings. He told me that race cars do not use synthetic oil and if they do they change it every race. I don't know much about cars beside driving them, so please don't be too rude on me if it sounds stupid... He also told me that once you start putting in synthetic oil, you need to change oil at the same frequency as regular oil and if so, there shouldn't be problems (which is contradictory of his initial statement). Last thing, he told me that once you convert to synthetic oil, you can't go back to regular oil. So, what do you guys think? I know that many of you run on synthetic and haven't had any issues... but does what he is saying make any sense? Thank you again for your input, I need to do an oil change soon and am hesitating if it is worth it at all to go on the synthetic road. At least he told me that as long as the oil change are done regularly, the use of synthetic oil doesn't affect the warranty. So, there is no major risks other than spending money for nothing and not being able to go back to regular (that aspect is more for when I will sell the car, but it is in a few years anyway). Steve
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2010 SHO tuxedo black, Fully loaded with 20's mags, Tinted windows (50-30-20), Lamin-x head and tail light covers, HID Bando kit 6K, LMS stage 4+, 94 oct, H&R springs, Airaid, custom exhaust Best 1/4 : 12.617sec. at 108.92mph; Best 1/8 : 8.099sec. at 83.72mph; Best 60 ft. of 1.802 sec.; Best trap speed of 111.82mph; 0-60mph in 4.0 sec.! |
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#2
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Synthetic is fine for your car. I ran it in my V8 SHO for years. I would think it would be what you should use.
A lot of that info he told you is false.
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2005 F-150 FX4 - 66k, 5.4L 4x4 1981 Honda Gl500 - 33k Former SHO's 1989, 1993 1999 Taurus SHO (7 years total!) |
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#3
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Synthetic is the only way to go. Been using in all my cars for the past 20yrs. There isn't one bit of truth in what you where told. And gas and oil do mix. I suggest you find a different dealer. They have to be the only dealer that doesn't offer a full synthetic oil change.
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#4
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Use the synthetic and don't look back. Been using it in my race motor for years and during a recent check of the motor I saw almost no wear on a 500+ HP small block Ford. Pretty damn good. If you have a LOT of time here is a great website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Get ready to spend hours reading... I use it in all of my stuff. I change around 5-6k miles depending on conditions.
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Mike C. 1965 GT350, 1967 GT500, 1984 Porsche 911, 2010 SHO, etc. etc. |
| The following user says thank you to SFM5S159 for this post: | ||
steve142857 (08-10-2011) | ||
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#5
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Finally, I heard a lot of good about the Royal Purple (which I could get), so I am leaning on buying that one, but agsain, if they only have 5W30, I am hesitating... Could I use the Motorcraft this time and continue my searches and switch to a different full synthetic oil for next change? Thanks, Steve |
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#6
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I use Mobil 1 5w-20 Full Synthetic. Wally World sells it in US for around $25. for the 5Qt container. I too wish I could run 5w-30 as my 2 G8's use that, and they take 8.8 Qts a time. Of course, if you own a Vette Gran Sport M-6 with the dry sump, it takes 11 Qts.
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2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex - WORLD'S FIRST 12 SECOND FLEX 12.901@106.85 MPH TORRIE TUNED 2009 Spt Red G8 GT - Headers, Cam, Wide-band TORRIE TUNED 12.078 ET @ 114.02 mph 2008 White G8 GT - Tune, Headers, CAI - 8.32ET 1/8 mi@85.66 MPH 2004 GTO - 12K Y 6 spd Sold to son - also has 04' R GTO - 55K Son#2 - 09' G8 GT & 05' Tuned Subaru Frstr Turbo 93 SHO - Red Auto, 91 SHO - Black, 90 SHO - White, 89 SHO - Black - ALL sold |
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#7
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Quote:
I will let you know what their anser is... Last edited by steve142857; 08-10-2011 at 11:13 AM. |
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#8
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I wouldn't hesitate to switch up to 5w30. From what I was told about multi viscosity oils. They are both the same, there both 5 weight oils one has the characteristic of 20w and the other 30w but both flow like 5w oil. I use mobile 1 from walmart, with a motorcraft filter.
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| The following user says thank you to Crash712us for this post: | ||
steve142857 (08-10-2011) | ||
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#9
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that technical advisor is useless find another one however if you have a serious drug addiction he's probably the best guy to find the good stuff
![]() nearly all race cars run synthetic and not all of them change after each race unless its some big sponsored outfit where each engine is worth almost as much as the car the SVT dealer here recommended me to use royal purple (which they stock at a really good price) its what i wanted to do asap when i got the car, and I have no regrets from switching over asap, i'm definately getting better gas mileage than regular motor oil if you have enough fuel going into the oil to cause bearing wear you probably have more problems to begin with, heavy blue smoke coming out the exhaust would be a good sign the only problem with royal purple is the colour is actually purple and can hinder as to how dirty the oil actually is (for the people that change oil based on colour)
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![]() 2010|Taurus SHO|13.6@101 Luskville Dragway QC Mods: K&N Air Filter Oil: Royal Purple 5w20 Winter Rollers: 19" Bremmer kraft BR05 wrapped with Michelin Pilot Alpin PA3 CONS: Every option possible but lacking HID's WTF Canada? |
| The following user says thank you to Unknown_Driver for this post: | ||
steve142857 (08-10-2011) | ||
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#10
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So, last question, can I switch from Royal Purple to Mobil1 to Motorcraft (considering they would all be the same 5W20 or 30)?
Thanks a 1000 times! |
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#11
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Absolutely. Some people even recommend switching up brands. There two things that are important about oil changes, 1 is that you change your oil when it's suppose to be. 2 that oil be API certified, this should never be a concern. Unless you buy your oil from a dollar store.
Last edited by Crash712us; 08-10-2011 at 11:36 AM. |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Crash712us For This Useful Post: | ||
steve142857 (08-10-2011), TonyTheTIger57 (04-08-2012) | ||
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#12
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I only went there because it is 2 minutes from my home, but have decided recently to go back to the dealer that sold me the car in first hand (which I bought my last 4 cars!). When I called them back, he told me he had in stock... go figure! lol I will buy RP 5W30 as I am sure there won't be any issue since 2011 are running with it. BTW Mike, will you put 5W20 or 30? |
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#13
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__________________
Quickest V6 Yamaha on the Forum!!! WELCOME TO AREA 91 91+ Green Not Stock! 12.74 ET & 114.25MPH 257 WHP All Motor. 336 WHP on N20, 91 Mocha Frost210WHP 210WTQ, 1967 Chevy Impala, 2 Door Hard Top 1977 Harley Davidson FLH 1965 Chevy II Drag Car |
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#14
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For those wanting to use a different weight oil, I'll say again, check out this website:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ For those wishing to go to a 30wt oil, I'd say read this first. You may switch, but at least take a look at what this guy has to say. Mike C. |
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#15
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Quote:
I receive an answer from Ford Canada and they basically wrote the portion of the 2010 owners' manual where it says to use 20... But at the end they say also that they are not technical and for that matter I should refer to the technicians at my dealer... As you read above, the tech advisor at my dealer is less than qualified... Ford Canada says that if there are not able to answer us, they, only them, can call a Ford division that would answer them directly... Anyways, I went to local speed shop and bought 6 qt of Royal Purple 5W30 and will have the oil change with it tomorrow. I will continue to read further and will adjust down the road, but will definitely stick with synthetic oil from now oon. Thanks all! Steve |
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#16
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In short, you'd be better with the 5W20 all of the time. For road racing or sustained high temps MAYBE the 30 would help a bit. No harm in using the 30 in hotter weather, but I'd default to the 5W20 at the next change. It's not a big deal either way; you are using a good quality synthetic oil. Don't lose any sleep over it...
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| The following user says thank you to SFM5S159 for this post: | ||
steve142857 (08-10-2011) | ||
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#17
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The one thing when I drive on the highway I get close to 32 miles per gal This then I was driving a round trip about 120 miles, in all I do close to 24.5 miles per gal (only when I no not gun the gas) At all times I start off slow and place to cruise control at the speed limit. |
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#18
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Steve, I've been using synthetic for almost 20 years and have never experienced any oil related problems. I had a 98 F-150 that I changed from 5W-30 to 5W-20 when Ford changed the oil recommendations and had no problem. I have used 5W-20 in all my Ford engines ever since. I would highly recommend staying with the 5W-20 recommendation, there has been enough miles put on vehicles that if there were problems they would have raised their head already. That said I just want to repeat that even though I use 5W-20 synthetic oil I still change oil and filter every 3000 miles. Just my two cents, and I have nothing scientific to back up my statements, other then I have seen a lot of miles put on vehicles I know personally and none of them have had any problem with the 5W-20 oil.
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2010 Candy Red SHO, MGP Caliper Covers, Livernois Stage 4+ Tune, Airaid CAI, LED Interior, Trunk, License Plate Lights, Front Marker Lights, Trunk Lettering Mod, and Lamin-X Smoke Tinted Taillights |
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#19
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THIS IS GETTING WAY TOO COMPLICATED....
Almost makes me think I should just forget about the oil altogether.... LOL. Say... how much is a Nitrous system for the EB engine anyway???? Afterburners??? Rocket propelled grenades????? Gotta be a way to get this brick into the 10's.... |
| The following user says thank you to EcoBrick Bob for this post: | ||
mjhpadi (08-11-2011) | ||
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#20
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Quote:
It says right on the filler cap to refill with Mobil 1 -- which just happens to be what I use in all my rides. The extra protection is worth every penny to me. Go for the full synthetic Steve. |
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#21
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Colin, The F1-Supercar tires on your GS will last 14K to 16K miles if you "Granny Driveit"
Start saving NOW! Those 325 Rears are $$$$$ especially in NORTHLAND.... Did you get a 2-tone interior? Mobil 1 is best known Synthetic... As good as any. And... aren't they (Exxon-Mobil) big in Ft. Mc Murray???? |
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#22
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#23
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I've used Mobil 1 for years as well with nothing but great results. I've thought about switching over to Royal Purple but really only to stop contributing to the profits of Exxon Mobil!
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Worlds quickest Gen IV.......Livernois Motorsports, SCT, Mobsteel, AlkyControl, Hennessey, Corsa, H&R |
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#24
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Amsoil is also a very excellent product, had used for many years and dealt it too.
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#25
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I wouldn't mind using that to Chris but cost is a factor. Up here it's $12-$14 -- Just about $10 more per liter than Mobil 1.
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#26
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For my street cars, Mobile 1, for the race motors, Red Line.
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#27
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I don't know how much it cost to become a amsoil dealer these days, but years ago it was only $20. And then your can buy dealer cost which was like half off.
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#28
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Your dealer isn't speaking with any type of knowledge on the subject. In fact, I'm inclined to say he is an idiot.
I've always run synthetic on everything (aside from my $500 beater). On the daily drivers, I'll run up to 10k miles at times. One the spirited, nice weather cars, I'll change between 2k-3k miles. It probably doesn't need it, but fresh oil never hurt. As much as I drive them, it turns out to be one oil change a year anyway. Both of those cars get Shell Rotella T (now referred to as "T6") as it's great oil, cheap, and easy to get. If you really want to learn about oil: BITOG Last edited by yamahaSHO; 01-20-2012 at 12:08 AM. |
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#29
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One of the few SHOs I saw when I was a service advisor at a Ford dealer had a complete cheapskate for an owner. I tried to sell him on the full synthetic citing that he has a high performance engine with a turbo. Guy passed and checked for the $19.95 oil change (which pssst, we didn't use Motorcraft 5w20 for, it was actually some off brand 10w30) and when it came to a tire rotation as dictated in his service manual, he passed again. I can't wonder about the priorities of some people that'll pony up for a large purchase and then skimp on the maintenance. The guy gripped about the 10% shop fee and then had the nerve to ask if we'd wash his car while walking him over to the cashier.
![]() All these rides below feature full synthetic oil in their engines.
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2006 Ford Fusion SEL 2.3 MTX Black 2005 Ford Escape XLS 2.3 ATX Blue 1999 Ford Mustang Convertible 3.8 AT Red 1992 Ford Taurus SHO 3.2 MTX Black |
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#30
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No doubt this guy was a cheap skate. But if he was suppose to get motorcraft oil change thats what he should of got. I'm inclined to believe the dealer did the same to me when I bought my car seeings how it had a valvoline oil filter on the car. It was a demo that 5000mi's on and I asked if they would change it. And as this being my 1st ford, Ive become accustom to having my cadillac washed when being serviced at the dealer. Its a nice gesture, but I using bring my car to the dealer spotless that way I get back the same way. I was a very satisfied cadillac owner for serval years never had a issue with the dealership, they would bend over backwards for me. I hope can say the same things about ford, so far so good though. The few TSB's that I've had done they did no questions asked.
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