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  #1  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:36 PM
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Default how does one tighten the rear strut nut

as the title states, I did both rear struts last summer and one has been rattling alittle and I think the main nut isn't tight enough and I couldnt for the life of me figure out how to get it really tight without spinning the strut rod, maybe I'm stupid I don't know, but I couldn't figure it out. One side is fine. If there is a trick to it I'd love to know it, thanks.
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:40 PM
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There is an 8mm bolt? Nut? Anyway, an 8mm something at the top of the strut that you can put a wrench on while tightening the nut. Honestly, it doesn't need to be real tight. I'd say 20-30lb/ft should be fine. Did you properly place the washer plates on the strut mount? I forgot to do so once and had a hell of a clunk/rattle until I figured it out.
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:54 PM
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It does have the 8mm but I remember I couldn't get it far enough up to get a wrench on it, I'm not sure about all the details, the whole process was a nightmare (broken pinch bolt) and over a year ago. The strut "shield" plastic thing has a metal top and all I hear going down the road is that thing jiggleling and that corner rattling.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:01 PM
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You'll need a deep offset wrench to get at that nut and a 2nd wrench to hold the top of the strut.
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:07 PM
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I'm taking it apart in the morning I'll make sure to take pics of the operation. I have a set of those wrenches too
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:24 AM
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If your takin it off, take it to a local repair shop and have the technician there, blast them twice with a quick shot from their impact gun. They will definitely be on tight then. If they're a cool dependable shop, they won't charge you anything for their 10 seconds of time to do it.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:32 AM
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When I did my suspension about 2 months ago I hit the top nut with an impact gun while it was on the car and the suspension was loaded. After that I used a strut socket for good measure. If you were closer I'd say you could stop by and we could get it tightened right up.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:05 AM
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Check your sway bar endlinks too - I thought I didn't have my strut mounts tight too, but it was the endlink.
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2011, 07:56 AM
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I think an impact wrench is the preferred method. You're not far from Kirk's shop... (hint hint )
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:36 AM
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I have an impact and thats what I used to put it on and it just spun the strut rod, and it didnt look like it did the job on that side but the other looked and is fine
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:14 AM
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What you are hearing is a worn strut mount. The rubber opening in the mount stretches out so much that the piston rod from the strut hits the metal on the car. You should Always replace strut mounts when putting in new struts, as they are a wear part.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by greengiant View Post
I have an impact and thats what I used to put it on and it just spun the strut rod, and it didnt look like it did the job on that side but the other looked and is fine
Oh. What exactly do you mean by "it didn't look like it did the job"? Was the nut visibly loose?
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kevinspann View Post
Check your sway bar endlinks too - I thought I didn't have my strut mounts tight too, but it was the endlink.
How much should you tighten them? I torqued mine to spec, which I think was listed at like 20 or 30 lbs. I still hear a clunk from my rear suspension too and I replaced everything in the suspension except for the swaybar bushings.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shobote View Post
What you are hearing is a worn strut mount. The rubber opening in the mount stretches out so much that the piston rod from the strut hits the metal on the car. You should Always replace strut mounts when putting in new struts, as they are a wear part.
my mounts were replaced when I did the struts.....

still confused on how to do this, its way to tight in there to do anything





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Old 05-19-2011, 12:20 PM
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If an impact gun is not working for you you'll have to use a strut socket. The top of the socket is open and where the ratchet attaches is offset. That's what I ended up using. It looks like this:

The open top of the socket lets you use another ratchet and socket to hold the piston rod stationary while you tighten the nut.
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2011, 12:21 PM
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I used an oxygen sensor socket to hold the large nut and used the impact on the center. Probably not what you should do.

Edit: You want to know another reason Tokicos are crap? They dont even have a hex to hold the strut shaft while trying to loosen the nut. I just cut them in half to get the Eibachs off. (Off topic, but it was a real pain in the ass to do my rear struts)



You can try and tighten the nut while its in the car with the suspension loaded.

Last edited by kevinspann; 05-19-2011 at 12:23 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2011, 12:59 PM
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I just recently did coilovers on my STi and it was an even tighter fit. I ended up welding a socket to a wrench and was able to get the job done.
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:06 PM
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I just did it, I used random rubber padding I stripped from my mitsu and went through a tear in the strut cover grabbed that SOB with some vice grips as high up the rod as I could and gave it hell and it worked, didn't leave a scratch either. I wouldn't recommend this but it worked really good. I'll post pics in awhile.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinspann View Post
I used an oxygen sensor socket to hold the large nut and used the impact on the center. Probably not what you should do.

Edit: You want to know another reason Tokicos are crap? They dont even have a hex to hold the strut shaft while trying to loosen the nut. I just cut them in half to get the Eibachs off. (Off topic, but it was a real pain in the ass to do my rear struts)
Bingo.

Put on whatever sized 1/4" drive socket fits the strut shaft in the middle. Then put the O2 sensor socket on the big nut. Then stick a 1/4" extension with a ratchet down the middle of the O2 sensor socket and use a box-end wrench on the O2 socket.
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:10 PM
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I just replaced a blown strut last night. I actually found a torque spec for the nut on AZ's website. It was I think 40 something for the high end? I didn't torque mine though just used my impact.

I never had a strut completely blow out and leak oil. The car drove like crap.
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:47 PM
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^^^^^ both mine were leaking oil before I replaced them, the back end always wanted to drift around corners if it hit a bump.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:30 PM
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before


after



just that 1/8 of an inch made all the difference

the tools



I tried to keep it high enough so that in case the padding wasnt enough it wouldnt leave marks on the rod that would effect the seal.



also found the when tightening the top end of the of the link that putting the nut on and fingering it down tight and then tightening it by turning the notched part of the link and then tightening the bottom nut works alot better than messing around trying to tighten the nut at the top. I did it last time tightening the nut and it took forever....seems kinda stupid that I did it that way the first time.

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Old 05-19-2011, 09:20 PM
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i cant even begin to remember how many times i have done the vice grip method works everytime
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