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Old 06-23-2010, 02:21 PM
HazMatt HazMatt is offline
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Default Car died while driving - Wont start - Fuel pump?

I was driving my car at work delivering pizzas when I had stopped to get gas. I left the car running, and dropped $5 bucks of premium into it. I hopped in the car, got to about 50mph and the engine completely cut out. I still had power and my dash lit up, as well as my head lights staying on. I thought "wtf" so I threw it in neutral while I was still rolling down the road and tried to fire the engine back up. Nothing happened at all. All of the power went out immediately once I turned the key in neutral. My headlights, dash lights, and every bit of power went completely black. Once I let go of the key the power came back on. I pulled over in a parking lot and had a friend come hook jumper cables to the car. When we try to start it, it will act like its trying to start normally, but never fires up. It makes all of the noises (not sure about fuel pump engaging noise) that its supposed to make when you're trying to start the car. The car just never fires.

Can anyone give me some ideas on where to start diagnosing this problem at? I replaced the alternator the same day and I had recently had the intake manifold off (maybe one of the hoses came loose?). If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:23 PM
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UPDATE: Just hooked the car up to jumper cables and I dont hear the fuel pump engage on forward accessory mode or ignition mode. Bad pump? Is there possibly a fuse for this problem? And is there any fuel pump replacement guides w/ pics that anyone is aware of?
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:47 PM
FastAndFurious FastAndFurious is offline
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Check fuel pump cutoff switch first. If it's not that, then you might wanna check if the switch and the fuel pump are getting power with multimeter.
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:59 PM
HazMatt HazMatt is offline
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Where is the fuel pump cutoff switch?

edit: Also isnt there some sort of reset access in the trunk? If so, where?

Last edited by HazMatt; 06-23-2010 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:04 PM
FastAndFurious FastAndFurious is offline
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It's located in trunk. Pull the carpet down a little bit on driver side wall, and you will see the switch.

I think you are talking about fuel pump cutoff switch.

Let me look for a picture for you. I might be able to find it somewhere.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:13 PM
FastAndFurious FastAndFurious is offline
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Oh.. check for codes too.
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:13 PM
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in addition to the things already mentioned, the ccrm could be bad - that powers the fuel pump, and of course the crank sensor could cause those symptoms too.
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:52 PM
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Check the 10amp mini fuse in the under hood fuse box marked " IGN. FEED" If it is blown unplug the sensor from your coolant overflow bottle and leave it disconnected. Then replace the fuse.

Last edited by SHOMON; 06-23-2010 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOMON View Post
Check the 10amp mini fuse in the under hood fuse box marked " IGN. FEED" If it is blown unplug the sensor from your coolant overflow bottle and leave it disconnected. Then replace the fuse.
Mine did this also, When it blows the codes will not display and the fuel pump won't work.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOMON View Post
Check the 10amp mini fuse in the under hood fuse box marked " IGN. FEED" If it is blown unplug the sensor from your coolant overflow bottle and leave it disconnected. Then replace the fuse.
This wasnt the problem.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubydist View Post
in addition to the things already mentioned, the ccrm could be bad - that powers the fuel pump, and of course the crank sensor could cause those symptoms too.
I have no clue what a ccrm is but the crank sensor would make the fuel pump not work? I can understand the engine not running from a bad crank sensor but it doesnt make sense that it would make the fuel pump not turn on upon accessory or ignition.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastAndFurious View Post
It's located in trunk. Pull the carpet down a little bit on driver side wall, and you will see the switch.

I think you are talking about fuel pump cutoff switch.

Let me look for a picture for you. I might be able to find it somewhere.
Pulled the carpet, didnt see a switch. Thanks tho?
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:02 PM
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Oh well I guess I'm just going to replace the fuel pump then. Let's hope thats what the problem is.
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:21 PM
Sholovenothate Sholovenothate is offline
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well the fuel pump wouldn't have caused the weird power problems you described.
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:40 PM
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Right. Well how can I test the ccrm? And does anyone have a picture of where the rest thing in the trunk is? I found a box on the driver side inner fender but didnt feel a button on the outside of it.
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:59 PM
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Ok so even if the ccrm is bad does that mean if I install the fuel pump then it is likely to go out again? My cars electrical seems fine now. I'm assuming something was shorted, maybe some fuses are still blown or something but either way. I dont have time to keep this car immobile, I need it for work. I'm to the point where I'm about to replace the fuel pump for lack of any further knowledge regarding why my car wont work, and if it blows again, get a new fuel pump, and maybe ccrm. After that, check the CPS. After that, I'm going to blow up my car for the 4th of July.
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt View Post
Ok so even if the ccrm is bad does that mean if I install the fuel pump then it is likely to go out again? My cars electrical seems fine now. I'm assuming something was shorted, maybe some fuses are still blown or something but either way. I dont have time to keep this car immobile, I need it for work. I'm to the point where I'm about to replace the fuel pump for lack of any further knowledge regarding why my car wont work, and if it blows again, get a new fuel pump, and maybe ccrm. After that, check the CPS. After that, I'm going to blow up my car for the 4th of July.
haha

I'm having the same problem with my car. don't know which it is yet but leaning towards the crank sensor. If you feel like it, search "car stalls around low idle". I can't change the title but if i could it would read car stalls intermittently
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:47 PM
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a bad ccrm is unlikely to kill the fuel pump, but the fuel pump will not work if the ccrm is bad, so changing the fuel pump will just be a waste of time/money if the ccrm is bad.

the crank sensor being bad can cause the no-start symptoms you have, but will not hurt the fuel pump - sorry if I was not clear in the earlier post.
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:10 PM
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Would a bad ccrm disable the fuel pump prime? I dont hear the fuel pump prime anymore and I could clearly always hear it ever since before this happened. How do I check if my ccrm is bad ?
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:12 PM
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And also, if the ccrm is fine, is there any other possibilities of the cause of this? I still havent found the fuel pump relay in the trunk. I found a small box inside the driver side trunk body that has 2 red caps on the outside that cover bolts. I cant see the actual device but this is all ive found so far. If this isnt it can someone guide me in the right direction of finding that reset switch?
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:36 AM
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the thing with the two red caps is what you are looking for - it also has a red button that you push in to reset it. (its not a relay, its a shutoff that gets activated by rollover or sharp bumps to turn the fuel pump off in event of crash)

a bad ccrm could prevent the fuel pump from priming also.
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:55 AM
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I see the red button/cap thing on the module but it doesnt press in any further. It's totally pressed in and wont move. Do I remove the red cap first? (The one on the module, not the two caps covering the bolts on the outside)

I cant do anything with the red button. It doesnt move.
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:24 PM
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that means it is like it should be and has not shut off the pump.
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Old 06-29-2010, 01:33 PM
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Come on people, instead of throwing out random parts that could be causing why not try and help troubleshoot the problem???

HazMatt - do you have an electric multi-meter that can read 0->12v? If not, please go buy or borrow one. Go into the trunk and disconnect the 2-wire connector that goes to the fuel safety cutoff switch that people have been mentioning in this thread.

For each of the wires (I forget which one is the voltage feed and which one goes to the fuel pump):

Hook one end of the multimeter up to a chassis ground (anywhere metal on the car) and stick the other into the connector, then have someone turn the key to the on position. The multimeter should read 12v for a second or two as the car attempts to prime the fuel pump. If you are not getting any voltage to either wire when you are doing this, you have a problem with your CCRM, something that feeds power or ground to the CCRM (such as the positive wire coming off of the battery leading to the engine computer), or the from the CCRM to the fuel pump itself.

If you ARE getting 12v at that connector, then you are most likely correct about the fuel pump being bad.

If the CCRM is dead or you are not getting voltage to that connector, you can hot-wire a fused switch inside of the car that will power your fuel pump directly off of the battery. Basically, + battery -> toggle switch -> connector in trunk for fuel pump. You can then see if your car will start with the fuel pump directly wired. This temporary solution will limp you around for a bit until you can track down the actual issue.
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:28 PM
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Thanks to the previous poster for saying what I had wanted to say for a week but didn't want to be rude.

I'll see what I can do about the voltage meter thing. I dont own one, nor know anyone who does. If I recall correctly they are also fairly expensive (considering ive never needed one before and if i bought one this would probably be the only thing id ever use it for). I'll see what I can do about testing the voltage this weekend on Saturday. Worst comes to worst I'd rather buy a working ccrm off here, and a new fuel pump, and say to hell with it and do them both.

At least then if something were to happen, I'd know its electrical/crank sensor (even tho i doubt its the crank sensor because that wouldnt disable the fuel pump)
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:06 AM
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HazMatt - you can buy a cheap multimeter from Amazon.com for $7 with free shipping (might take a week to get to your house), Walmart and Radioshack have them for under $20. Worth every penny.
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Old 07-02-2010, 04:36 PM
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alright ill stop by walmart tonight and check it out. ill try what you said tomorrow and let you know the results. thanks.
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:54 PM
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My 93 did the same thing and it turned out to be the 10 amp underhood fuse. My coolant overflow cap was fried on the underside and smelled horrible. Can't understand why Ford engineers decided to tie that low coolant idiot light to the ignition circuit...
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:22 PM
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I bought the voltage meter but I have no clue how to operate one properly. Too many settings on this stupid thing.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:39 PM
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Set it to DC voltage. Usually its labeled DCV, and will have a bunch of settings (1000mv, 10mv, 20, 200, 2000) - set it to the lowest number above 12 volts - ex... if yours is labeled 10, 100, 1000 choose 10, if it's labeled 20, 200, 2000 choose 20.

Last edited by ViPER1313; 07-08-2010 at 03:43 PM.
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