SHOforum.com
Frequently Asked Questions
For all three
generations of the Taurus SHO
--------
Q.
How is a SHO different from a regular Taurus?
A. The Taurus SHO in all three generations is a completely different animal from the regular Ford Taurus. Most notably, it has a Yamaha-developed high performance engine that gives the SHO a significant performance advantage over the rest of the Taurus line. Generation I models came standard with a manual transmission, generation II models had an optional automatic. You will also find suspension tweaks, slight variations in body cladding , most of the higher-end interior options of the Ford Taurus line as well as some options unique to the SHO. For specific differences view the model year options in the general Taurus SHO information section (coming soon).
Q.
What are the 0-60 & ¼ times for the SHO?
A. Times can obviously vary depending on location, car condition, auto or manual trans and driver skill. In stock trim low 15 second passes are common on the manual transmission (MTX) cars. High 14’s are not uncommon for a stock MTX but are generally the exception rather than the rule. Expect mid-high 15’s for the automatic (ATX) SHOs. A good running STOCK SHO with a competent driver can expect the following:
1989-1995 /w manual transmission:
0-60: 6.4-7.0 seconds,
¼ mile 15.0-15.5 @ 91-95 MPH
1993-1995 /w automatic transmission:
0-60:
7.2-7.7 seconds
¼ mile: 15.4-15.9@ 89-93 MPH
1996-1999 (automatic only)
0-60 7.3-7.8 seconds
¼ mile 15.5-16.0@ 87-90 MPH
A. MTX = Manual Trans axle-5-speed manual transmission. ATX = Automatic Trans axle-4-speed automatic transmission.
A. This question has been asked time and again. The best answer is to just match up with said car at your local drag strip and find out who’s quicker. Or, use the average SHO stats listed on this page to compare stats with other cars (bench racing). In the end it’s all about the driver and the circumstances…SHOs have been known to beat F-bodies, Mustangs, Corvette’s etc. but that doesn’t mean it’s the faster car. The SHO is not a good ¼ mile car; it’s better suited for rolling starts, road courses or flat out running. Never the less this is the United States and we’ll drag race shopping carts with engines so have at it!
A. Here it is in a nutshell. STOCK FOR STOCK, both cars are equal enough in performance to make this comparison a judgment call in all arenas. In general the SHO in all forms will outperform the SVT Contour in straight line acceleration, but only by a small margin. SVT Contour’s on average are a mid 15 second car so don’t make any mistakes! On a road course it’s the SVT Contour that gets the nod. Smaller, lighter and a better tuned suspension really makes these cars handle. However, the SHO is not a bad handling car by any means, and once a SHO owner learns the <b>true</b> limits of their car a SHO can do a respectable job on the road course.
A. In many ways this has become the FWD version of Mustang vs. Camaro. The 97/newer Grand Prix GTP’s have a moderate HP advantage but more importantly a huge torque advantage. As such the GTP in stock trim will average 15.0 flat quarter mile passes all day long, and like the MTX SHOs many are capable of dipping into the 14’s while 100% stock. With regards to straight-line performance this is a tough race; MTX SHOs will need a picture perfect run to compete, ATX SHOs will struggle to keep within a car length. And modding a GTP is far easier than modding a SHO; a simple pulley change and a GTP will be well into 14’s and out of a stock SHOs grasp. In the handling department the GTP—though improved over recent years—still suffers from the typical GM under steer. A GTP can handle well enough, but a properly maintained stock SHO will handle better.
Q.
What is the fastest modified SHO?
A. There are actually three parts to this answer: Quarter mile, top speed and dynoed horsepower. The following statistics are printed here by permission of the respective owners of these super SHOs and are current as of this FAQ printing, March 2003. They are the “known” quickest/most powerful SHOs in the country. If you know of another one email the SHOforum.com staff and let them know, but be prepared to back it up with proof!
Dynoed horsepower: Joshua Teixeira, 1995 Taurus SHO 5-speed -- 465.7 wheel horsepower @7500 RPM, 349.4 ft. lbs torque @ 6600 RPM. Josh is the owner of SHO-NUT Performance and has a thoroughly massaged SHO V-6. Josh’s dyno plot can be seen at http://www.shoclub.com/membersonly/joshturbosho.htm.
Q.
I went to change the spark plugs and found oil in the wells!
Is this bad?
A. Yes and no. Oil in the plug wells is caused by leaking spark plug well gaskets; small O shaped gaskets that fit against the cam cover and head, sealing the spark plug wells from the oil in the head. When these seals go bad they allow oil to seep into the spark plug well. It’s bad in that the oil will shorten the life of your spark plugs and plug wires, ultimately causing your SHO to run poorly. Given the high prices of SHO plugs and plug wires it wouldn’t be very cost effective to install new equipment only to be destroyed by the leaking oil. But you can live with the oil in there if need be; no harm will come to your engine but eventually those plugs and plug wires will go bad, causing your SHO to lose ignition in those cylinders and that can obviously be bad for the engine! Changing the spark plug well seals is not too terribly difficult, and is actually part of the 60,000 mile service mentioned below.
Q.
What does the 60,000-100,000 scheduled maintenance include?
A. On the 89-95 V-6 powered SHOs there is a hefty maintenance requirement at 60,000 miles that is unique to the SHO and includes AT LEAST the following:
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
New timing belt
New accessory belts
Valve lash adjustment
The spark plugs, plug wires and timing belt are typical wear items that should be changed at/around 60,000 miles. The valve lash adjustment is important to the life of the camshafts. These engines are similar to many motorcycle engines in that they have a “bucket tappet” solid type valvetrain. To keep the necessary cam lobe clearances small metal shims are used, and at 60,000 miles it’s a good idea to check for proper clearances and undue wear on these shims. If a shim shows excessive wear it should be replaced to avoid undue wear/damage to the cam lobe.
Because the 60,000 mile service requires a fair amount of engine disassembly, many people take this opportunity to replace other parts that are vital to engine operation but would be hard to access otherwise. These items include (but are not limited to):
Intake gaskets
Cam cover gaskets
Spark plug well gaskets
Water pump
Crankshaft Position sensor
Camshaft Position sensor
Thermostat
The 3.4 liter SHO V8 has a similar maintenance schedule—including the valve lash adjustment—at 100,000 miles. Expect to pay anywhere from $700-$1200 dollars for this complete service at a Ford dealership.
For complete information on these maintenance schedules as well as helpful walkthroughs for the do-it-yourself mechanic be sure to visit www.shotimes.com and www.v8sho.com.
A. Nine times out of ten this problem is the result of a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). In most cases the engine will just simply shut down like the ignition was turned off. Sometimes it will restart after it has cooled down, but most of the time it is simply dead in the water. Since the CPS is also used to operate the tachometer a common warning sign is the tach dropping to 0 while still driving down the road and not registering anything while the engine is being started. In any case, replacing the CPS is not an easy task as it requires tearing down a good portion of the passenger side engine bay and engine itself. The part costs approximately $50-$70 dollars but expect the big bill to come in labor; as much as 6 hours worth at some shops. This item is generally replaced during a 60,000 mile service. Fortunately for the mechanically inclined there is a complete write up on replacing the CPS at www.shotimes.com
Q.
My V8 SHO just died/cam failure, help!
A. Unfortunately this is becoming a major, widespread concern on the 96-99 V8 powered Taurus SHO. The problem: A flaw in the camshaft/sprocket design that can allow the sprocket to slip on the camshaft. When this occurs the engine timing is disrupted and massive internal engine damage is usually the result. Unfortunately new engines are no longer available, and some V8 owners have reported repair bills as high as $20,000 dollars. The problem usually begins with a ticking sound coming from underneath the hood. That ticking can last for weeks or be followed buy an engine failure almost immediately. There is a fix for this problem; it involves welding or pinning the sprockets to the camshafts themselves. The procedure costs anywhere from $500-$1000 dollars and can be performed by most engine specialists.
There is presently a class-action lawsuit against Ford Motor Company regarding the V8 cam problem. www.v8sho.com has complete information on this problem including a cam failure registry and information on where you can get your cam sprockets welded.
Q.
My transmission just died, help!
A. The 1993-1995 Taurus SHOs with automatic transmissions are notorious for having transmission problems. In short, the transmission is just too weak for the power of the SHO V6. In most cases it’s not if, but WHEN a trans rebuild is needed. The 1993 model year was the worst, 1994 and 1995 saw minor improvements. 1996-1999 SHOs also have transmission issues that are more related to temperature and fluid breakdown. There is no simple fix or miracle cure; the best thing you can do for your automatic transmission is to do a flush every 30,000 miles and treat it gently. When it’s time for a rebuild, visit www.shotimes.com or www.v8sho.com for helpful information on rebuilds and where to get them done.
Q.
What problems should I look for in a used SHO?
A. Sadly, due to the performance nature of these cars many used SHOs have seen some hard abuse. When shopping, be smart. Ask about maintenance. Check all the fluids...clean oil is a light-medium brown “caramel” color. Transmission fluid should be a pink/red color. Ask why the car is being sold? Ask the owners opinion of the best and worst part about the car. Information is power, and the more info you have the better prepared you’ll be in making your purchase.
Relating specifically to the Taurus, there are several areas you should check before purchasing the car. Has the 60,000/100,000 mile service been completed? The automatic transmissions have always been a weak point in the SHO, be sure to notice the smoothness of the transmission on your test drive. Hard shifts, (slamming, harsh shifts, not to be confused with good “firm” shifts) clunking or slipping between gears are all signs that the transmission has problems. MTX equipped cars are prone to exploding differentials if the car has been abused, unfortunately there is really no way to tell if a diff is going bad until it explodes. But if the car shows signs of abuse, specifically worn/bald front tires then you may want to be wary of the differential. Oil in the spark plug wells is also a common problem, and while it’s not necessarily detrimental to the engine it will eventually cause the plug wires to short out. Driver seat wear is a common problem as is front end wear…ball joints, tie rods, CV joints etc. This is actually a common problem with most FWD Ford vehicles…note any undue play in the steering wheel, clunking or a tendency of the car to wander while driving, these are all symptoms of worn front end components. On the later V8 SHOs be sure to ask about the camshafts! There is a major problem with the V8 cams that can cause catastrophic engine damage…this problem is discussed in more detail in the "My V8 SHO died" section of this FAQ.
Q.
I’m looking to buy/sell a SHO, what is a fair price?
A. Regarding price, the Taurus SHO suffers from the same low resale value of the regular Taurus lineup. Obviously factors such as condition and mileage figure in the overall value but in general you can expect the following:
Full retail price or more for low mile, outstanding condition SHO of any year.
Average condition, average mile SHOs will generally bring prices slightly to moderately below retail.
Well used higher mile SHOs commonly bring WELL below retail.
What is retail? The best guide available is www.nada.com. This book is used by most auto dealers and lending institutions, and generally gives more accurate, real world market figures then Kelly Blue Book.
Q.
I’ve heard that Yamaha actually built the SHO engine, is this true?
A. It’s true! Both the 3.0 and 3.2 liter SHO V6 engines were designed and built by Yamaha in Japan, crated and shipped to the United States where they were mated with the car; Ford had virtually nothing to do with the development & assembly of this engine. The SHO V8, while still chiefly constructed by Yamaha, saw more direct involvement from Ford.
Q.
I’ve heard that the original SHO engine made 300 horsepower.
Is this true?
A. Rumors and mystery have always surrounded the SHO V6 power plant. Unfortunately at this point rumors are all we have to work with. Some people have claimed to talk with Ford representatives, others have claimed to watch “stock” Taurus SHOs driven by Ford reps running much quicker than production SHOs. Unfortunately there is no hard evidence to support the 300 horsepower claim, and so much time has passed since the development of this engine that the truth may never be known. The SHO V6 is already an overachieving engine. Developing more power without forced induction is certainly possible, but if a 300 horsepower SHO V-6 did exist it would have some substantial differences from the production SHO power plant. It’s not a case of simply switching a part or changing a computer program on a regular SHO engine to find the extra 80 horsepower.
Q.
I want to mod my SHO…what should I do first?
A. First of all, it’s a good idea to make sure your car is in decent mechanical condition to start with. Modding a car with existing problems is like building a house on an uneven foundation. Any performance gains made through your modifications will be offset by the performance losses from your poorly maintained SHO. Do the maintenance, get the car up to check and THEN start modding…your car will run much stronger, your mods will be more effective and you’ll be better off in the long run.
That being said, most people start with exhaust work. If exhaust gases can’t get out then it doesn’t matter how much air/fuel you can take in. The front Y-pipe on the SHO V6 is very restrictive so many people start there and continue with a good catback exhaust system. Quality exhaust items on the SHO aren’t cheap though. Be prepared to pay $300-$600 for a good Y-pipe (depending on application) and another $250-$500 for a full catback exhaust kit. On the V8 SHO many people opt to bypass the “third cat” which can be a source of restriction and replace the factory mufflers with something more aggressive. Another good place to start is the suspension. Aside from making the car ride/handle better a SHO with an old, worn out suspension can actually lose straight-line performance due to massive weight transfer on the sagging springs. A good set of springs and struts will not only make your SHO feel like new; you’ll notice a big difference during launches and hard acceleration events as well.
Beyond these basics the pocketbook is the limit. Bolt on supercharger kits are available but cost in the vicinity of $4000-$5000 dollars. And without additional engine/transmission modifications the true power gains from these systems will not be seen and the driveline will likely explode in the process. Turbo charging a SHO is essentially out of the question. No turbo kits are available for the SHO and building a custom turbo setup would cost thousands of dollars. In the end it’s simple…speed equals money, so how fast do you want to go?
Q.
What exhaust sounds the best?
A. This question is a very difficult one to answer, given the subjective nature of exhaust sound. For the V6 cars it’s generally agreed that any aggressive, straight-through type muffler will yield a loud, raspy, unpleasant sound and should be avoided unless annoying the neighbors is a priority. Most V6 owners approve of the Dynomax system; it’s not very obtrusive, not very raspy and definitely pumps out a healthy sound. Dynomax makes a complete cat-back exhaust kit that bolts on easily and comes with factory style 2 ½ inch stainless steel exhaust tips already on the mufflers. If a full catback isn’t called for, most turbo-style mufflers will produce a desirable sound. Flowmaster style mufflers can provide a good sound at idle but tend to be very raspy and tinny sounding at RPM. Vibrant performance is a lesser-known company but they have an outstanding reputation for great sounding mufflers and that also holds true for the SHO.
The V8 SHOs enjoy the luxury of having that classic V8 rumble. Pretty much anything that opens up the exhaust will sound good…it all depends on how loud you want to be. Flowmasters give a good, aggressive sound but tend to drone inside the car. Borla mufflers are expensive but give a great combination of sound without overpowering noise. Glasspacks and bullit style mufflers will also create a powerful, classic V8 sound but they are also extremely loud both inside and outside the car, espically under acceleration. In the end it’s all about personal preferences but these are some of the common recommendations from other Taurus SHO owners.
Thanks to Chris Smith for providing the above information.