How to pull the SPOUT connector, With pics.

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by T.O_SHO, Jan 20, 2006.

  1. T.O_SHO

    T.O_SHO Power Hungry

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    Ok, so here is a seemingly simple write up on how to pull your SPOUT connector so you can pass your emission / smog test with ease. While the connector is pulled your car will feel like it has a loss of power, and is running with about 100 HP. That is normal when the connector is unplugged. I had a hard time actually finding it, but sure enough, it is down there.

    Ok, First things first, remove the black plactic shroud where the EEC self test and ABS test are located (the SPOUT will be in the area directly under those 2 test "plugs"). Generally located behind the engine on the passenger side... there should be 3 plastic fastners, undo those and it should come right off. that frees up tons of space for you to get your hand down there (as space is a little tighter in the MTX)

    Once the shroud is off, just make sure the spout is not right under your nose, the connector looks like this (This is the ACTUAL connector, this is what your looking for)

    [​IMG]


    If its not visable, you need to dig a little deeper. Mine was simply hiding behind one of the several wiring harnesses that are back there. Its best to get a flashlight down there because that will allow you to see around or under some harnesses, Dont give up, it is there...

    There are a few connectors down there, you re looking for this one (this picture shows you how big it is in relation to my finger)

    [​IMG]

    If you still cant find it, just stick your hand in there and start feeling around...It will be like using Braille but once you feel any connector, try to take a look at it, feeling for the one I pictured above.


    Once you find it, in order to unplug the grey "jumper" you need to pull apart the tabs that hold it in, which is easy. The tabs are long, at one end they are holding in the connector, and at another end you push down on it and it will make the tab rise out...and then you hold the connector with one hand, and pull the grey part with the other. They should just come right out, if it doesnt, one of the tabs is still locked in...

    This is what the jumper you are trying to take out looks like:

    [​IMG]

    and this is what the empty connector looks like:

    [​IMG]

    When its time to put the connector back in, just simply pop it in until it clicks, and cant be pulled out easily. Also make sure you insert it the proper way up, there should be a white marking on the connector and the grey peice itself, the 2 white marking must be pointing the same way.

    If you have any info you want to add, feel free to do so, its all welcomed...

    Also, just so this thread can be found easy,here are some common search terms so this thread comes up in the search

    failed emission
    failed smog
    spout
    pulling spout
    NOx


    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2006
    joereef, Randall, SHO GoDz 89 and 4 others like this.
  2. NJSHO

    NJSHO Clean Your Shorts!

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    Just as a note mine had a black jumper thing not a white/gray so look for shape and not color.
     
  3. etc1006

    etc1006 SHO Member

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    Also make sure to put all these test connections back where they were. Or wire tie them up so as not to end up a melted blob on the manifold... With running problems. Do I hear a another vote for T.O. to have a sticky? :thumb:
     
  4. Ishodu

    Ishodu Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks Marc. I give it a sticky. I donno why it came up with me editing the above post though.
     
  5. ManySHOs

    ManySHOs []=[] []

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    Great post. I found out recently that I had been disconnecting the wrong plug. Now I wonder what that empty connector at the firewall is. I'll have to snap a picture!

    I suspect that I'll pass emissions here with the +20'ed 3.2 but I'm not going to take any chances. I need to get it smogged by the end of the month.

    Ian
     
  6. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    ALSO, there is another SPOUT connector. It is located by the ABS Pump. Its fairly easy to find from under the car...
     
  7. T.O_SHO

    T.O_SHO Power Hungry

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    Thanks for the sticky Marcel, I think a guide like this was needed...
     
  8. Mac

    Mac Registered

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    What effects would this have on a turbo'd car and could you pass with the connecteror pulled and catless y?
     
  9. brianksfb

    brianksfb SHO Member

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    would this give my car a 212 code?
     
  10. T.O_SHO

    T.O_SHO Power Hungry

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    212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems

    I dont think Ive ever heard of pulling the SPOUT giving you a code (I know I could be wrong here) ... But it could be possible seeing as how that code is spout related...
     
  11. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Just to clarify: Loss of a valid SPOUT signal causes the DIS Module to automatically turn the ignition coils on and off using the PIP signal. This results in a fixed spark timing and dwell (10 degrees BTDC).
     
  12. haydenm315

    haydenm315 SHO Member

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    Well... my car has failed emissions twice so far. No codes, except for an O2 sensor burp a couple months ago. Hasn't come back either. (40k on it, tested with a propane torch and meter with proper responses observed... no further codes.) I refuse to do a tuneup when it's 15k away. I get over 400miles out of each tank, and add a quart of oil every 1000 miles. (Rear main is giving up the goat but timing it conveniently for clutch time).

    I cease to understand how I can get over 400 miles per tank and still have the getup that I do. I'm more mature and dont' really test it anymore though. I do the 15,27,35,44 shift pattern whenever I can. I do get stuck in rush hour on the morning and afternoon commute on a routine basis which only hurts my 400+ miles per tank more. My best guess is I'm failing emmissions at low rpms because I dont' have an LPM and I have cams, exhaust, intake, etc..... They really bog the crap out of my car during testing. I'm only guessing my engine isn't spinning fast enough to burn the fuel being dumped in the cylinders, but anyways I'm rambling on.

    Tomorrow I go back for revenge, thanks to detailed spout connector directions. Maybe now my car won't jump off the rollers hahaha. I'm sure it will still shake the waiting booth. The driver is going to have to pay...... thanks to my mufflers touching my newly installed but never used towhitch. haha

    My graphs are usually annoyingly horrid... to the point where I blame it on the tester. I'm off the charts at engagement or before my wheels spin. I think the testers suck in general as drivers, but then again, your car should pass no matter who is driving it.
     
  13. EMB2580

    EMB2580 Mike is a L O S E R

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    Heh, my owner's manual says, 17, 27, 35, 42...odd.
     
  14. inverse1216

    inverse1216 SHO Member

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    will this work on a car without cats?
     
  15. T.O_SHO

    T.O_SHO Power Hungry

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    Ive heard of several people pass the test with the spout pulled and no cats. Just be careful if theres a visual inspection.
     
  16. platoribs

    platoribs Live to Drive

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    Yes. But why Andj? Your not driving around are you???
     
  17. Rockledge

    Rockledge Pluggin' away

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    Just wanted to confirm another emissions test passed (after one failure) as a result of the SPOUT connector being pulled. Let's just say that NOx levels almost miraculously decreased by a solid 70%. :naughty:
     
  18. Team Dave

    Team Dave SHO n00b

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    Another confirmation here. Failed smog yesterday, and passed today after pulling the SPOUT connector. Car didn't feel too terribly slow.. I was worried the guy would notice it feeling slower. Felt nearly the same down low, so he didn't even notice. My numbers are as follows:

    Yesterday (FAILED)
    -HC @ 15 mph: Max 85, Measured 44
    -CO% @ 15 mph: Max 0.50, Measured 0.04
    -NO @ 15 mph: Max 695, Measured 706 <- FAIL

    -HC @ 25 mph: Max 50, Measured 39
    -CO% @ 25 mph: Max 0.47, Measured 0.04
    -NO @ 25 mph: Max 717, Measured 708 <- CLOSE!!


    And Today
    -HC @ 15 mph: Max 85, Measured 26
    -CO% @ 15 mph: Max 0.50, Measured 0.02
    -NO @ 15 mph: Max 695, Measured 353

    -HC @ 25 mph: Max 50, Measured 22
    -CO% @ 25 mph: Max 0.47, Measured 0.02
    -NO @ 25 mph: Max 717, Measured 249

    :evilgrin: :thankyou:
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  19. projectSHO89

    projectSHO89 SHOless In St L Staff Member

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    SPOUT Plugs/ OCTANE ADJUST Jumper

    There are two SPOUT plugs:

    SPOUT #1 is the one located between the DIS module and the PCM (electrically) and physically near the CID sensor. Removal of that jumper removes PCM control from the DIS module, losing both advance and computer-controlled dwell. Base timing defaults to a fixed 10 BTDC and fixed dwell, all timing comes from the PIP signal, and the engine will run but will be a pooch.

    SPOUT #2 is physically located by the coil and is the "OCTANE ADJ" jumper. It is a direct signal input to the PCM. When removed, it tells the PCM to pull 3 degrees of advance from the timing globally so that pre-ignition is not as likely, especially in the event of knock sensor failure.

    Steve
     
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  20. SHOOFF508

    SHOOFF508 backfromthedead

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    if i remember correctly pulling the spout produced a 5xx somthing code on my 94. i simply pulled the bulb out of the cluster and besides that she passed with flying colors w/ the spout pulled out.
     

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