How to Bleed Brakes without ABS tool

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Suspension, Brake Systems, & Body' started by Wakeboy1337, May 16, 2010.

  1. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    My brake pedal in my 93 is feeling mushy as hell. How does one go about bleeding the brakes without that special ford tool that plugs into the harness?
     
  2. SHOtime2511

    SHOtime2511 CGP

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    The same way you bleed the brakes on every other car.
     
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  3. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    My service book says that wont work.
     
  4. jmpSHO

    jmpSHO SHO Member

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    Just bleed them normally, it will work.
     
  5. llamaking122

    llamaking122 Green Machine

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    Really wish i had one right now!
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    it wont be 100% the same tho... my dad just got the tool for $36 on close out from his work if u want it i can see if he has any more. its normally $120 or so
     
  6. LJRuddy

    LJRuddy Pop lock n drop

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    I just find a gravel or dirt road and speed up to 20 or 25mph and do 3 or 4 emergency stops making sure the ABS kicks on. Then go back and bleed the system again.
     
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  7. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    LjRuddy My ABS will work for one emergency stop then the light turns on and it wont work for another day or so.
     
  8. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    You can bleed the calipers just fine without any special equipment.

    The special stuff is for bleeding the ABS portion of the brake system. If this is what you want to do, and you don't have either the Ford dealie or the Thexton TEVES ABS box, the gravel road method is your only choice (AFAIK). If that doesn't work (as you've described above), then you've probably got other problems (i.e. bad ABS pump or ABS computer).
     
  9. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    So Bleeding my brakes normally will get rid of mushy pedal feeling? IT takes good travel on the pedal to get a lot of brake power.
     
  10. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    If done properly, and assuming that your master cylinder and all the associated goodies are in normal working condition, yes, it should. And without any special tools.

    When I bleed my brakes, all I use is a properly-sized box-end wrench for the bleeder screws, some tubing and a jar with some fresh fluid in it.

    Now, if you bleed all four corners (and you should move from furthest from the master cylinder to closest-- that's RR, LR, RF, LF), topping off the reservoir in between each one, and all of the bubbles are out of the system, and you still have a spongy/soft pedal, you may have a bad master cylinder assembly.

    The ABS stuff doesn't even come into it until the ABS engages. But if you're getting an ABS light, it could be related to the same cause of the soft pedal. I'd recommend pulling the ABS DTCs.

    Reproduced from another thread, here are the instructions for that:

    ABS Data Link Connctor (C170) viewed from pin face:

    .../------------\
    ../....[.]....[G]....\
    ./......................\
    /..[.]..[.]..[T]..[.]..\
    --------------------

    L = Warning lamp to dash
    G = Ground
    T = Trigger

    To pull codes, use a paperclip to jumper the ground and trigger pins together.
    Turn ignition key to RUN without starting engine.
    Count ABS light flashes to get two-digit code. Each code takes about 15 seconds if there are multiple codes.

    ABS Error codes:

    11 (ABS Module)
    17 (Reference Voltage Problem)
    22 (LH Front Inlet Valve)
    23 (LH Front Outlet Valve)
    24 (RH Front Inlet Valve)
    25 (RH Front Outlet Valve)
    26 (RH Rear Inlet Valve)
    27 (RH Rear Outlet Valve)
    28 (LH Rear Inlet Valve)
    29 (LH Rear Outlet Valve)
    31 (LH Front Sensor)
    32 (RH Front Sensor)
    33 (RH Rear Sensor)
    34 (LH Rear Sensor)
    35 (LH Front Sensor)
    36 (RH Front Sensor)
    37 (RH Rear Sensor)
    38 (LH Rear Sensor)
    41 (LH Front Sensor)
    42 (RH Front Sensor)
    43 (RH Rear Sensor)
    44 (LH Rear Sensor)
    51 (LH Front Outlet Valve)
    52 (RH Front Outlet Valve)
    53 (RH Rear Outlet Valve)
    54 (LH Rear Outlet Valve)
    55 (LH Front Sensor)
    56 (RH Front Sensor)
    57 (RH Rear Sensor)
    58 (LH Rear Sensor)
    61 (FLS Circuits)
    62 (Travel Switch)
    63 (Pump Motor Speed Sensor)
    64 (Pump Motor Pressure)
    67 (Pump Motor Relay)
    71 (LH Front Sensor)
    72 (RH Front Sensor)
    73 (RH Rear Sensor)
    74 (LH Rear Sensor)
    75 (LH Front Sensor)
    76 (RH Front Sensor)
    77 (RH Rear Sensor)
    78 (LH Rear Sensor)

    Good luck with it.
     
  11. SHOtime2511

    SHOtime2511 CGP

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    did you recently change pads?
     
  12. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    No I've never changed the pads on this car. They have plenty of material left right now.


    Brb, gonna run ABS codes
     
  13. notbange

    notbange ---/\===\/---

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    A mushy pedal could be caused by seized up slider pins, making the caliper piston travel a lot farther then necessary to squeeze the rotor. When I first got my 93, the metal portion of the LF brake hose was bent the wrong way pulling the hose tight and causing a spongy long travel pedal. I carefully bent it back so the hose wasn't being pulled tight. Or, a bad master could cause a spongy pedal. A bad master is a possibility too, but doesn't seem to be that common on these cars.
     
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  14. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    None of my hoses are bent, I went over that when I bought the car. What exactly is a slider pin? You lost me on that. Also the master seems good because it hold its vacuum and it doesn't leak fluid.

    My code was 67 (Pump Motor Relay)

    Does that relay fail often on these cars? Like I said my abs is good for one shot and after that, no abs.
     
  15. notbange

    notbange ---/\===\/---

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    The slider pins on the front of a 93 are the bolts with a torx head that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle, the caliper needs to be able to slide freely over the pins. Take them out and grease them up good if they haven't been out in a while. Work them in and out of the hole a few times to makes sure they're free. On the rear, the slider pins are what the caliper attaches to the bracket with. There are rubber boots between the end of the pin and the caliper bracket. The pins need to be able to slide in and out of the bracket freely. If you take the caliper off the bracket, the pins should very easily be moved in and out by hand. If not, pull them out and grease them up good and make sure they stay free. They sell silicone based brake lube for that purpose.
     
  16. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    Ah! I never knew the specific name for those parts. The front ones were out less than a month ago and the rear ones were out last year. They all look fine.
     
  17. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    Here's the diagnostic flowchart for an ABS code 67, from the Ford Service Manual:

    DTC 67
    Possible Source(s):
    § Pump motor running not triggered by anti-lock brake control module.
    Action(s) to Take:
    § Go to «Pinpoint Test Step E1».

    ===================================================================
    E1 VERIFY PUMP MOTOR CONDITION

    l With vehicle standing still:
    l Check if pump motor (2C256) runs with ignition switch (11572) in RUN or OFF position.
    l Does pump motor (2C256) run with ignition switch in the OFF position?

    Yes
    GO to «E2»

    No
    GO to «E3».
    ===================================================================

    ===================================================================
    E2 CHECK PUMP MOTOR RELAY

    l Remove pump motor relay.
    l Check for continuity between Pin 30 and test pin on the relay.
    l Is continuity present?

    Yes
    REPLACE pump motor relay.

    No
    REVERIFY that pump motor (2C256) runs with ignition switch (11572) in OFF position.
    ===================================================================

    ===================================================================
    E3 CHECK CIRCUIT 539 TO GROUND

    l Turn ignition switch (11572) to the OFF position.
    l Disconnect anti-lock brake wiring plug from anti-lock brake control module (2B373).
    l Connect Rotunda EEC-IV Breakout Box 014-00322 with Anti-Lock Test Adapter T90P-50-ALA or equivalent to the 55-pin plug anti-lock brake wiring (2C054).
    l Check for continuity between breakout box Pins 15 and 60.
    l Is continuity present?

    Yes
    GO to «E4».

    No
    GO to «E5».
    ===================================================================

    ===================================================================
    E4 CHECK CIRCUIT 539

    l Disconnect pump motor relay from wire harness.
    l Check for continuity between Breakout Box Pins 15 and 60.
    l Is continuity present?

    Yes
    SERVICE or REPLACE cable harness Circuit 539 (PK/LB).

    No
    REPLACE pump motor relay.
    ===================================================================

    ===================================================================
    E5 CHECK ANTI-LOCK BRAKE CONTROL MODULE

    l Reconnect pump motor relay and anti-lock brake control module (2B373).
    l Turn ignition switch (11572) to the RUN position.
    l Does pump motor (2C256) run?

    Yes
    REPLACE anti-lock brake control module (2B373).

    No
    REVERIFY symptom.
    ===================================================================
     
  18. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    I dont even know how to check to see if the motor runs....
     
  19. jonheese

    jonheese Know-It-All

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    If it's running, you should hear it. Alternatively, you can put your hand/fingertips on it and feel for vibrations; I think it can be reached from either under the car or from the top, under the hood. It's the big black pump-looking thing with all of the brake line connections coming out of it, under the master cylinder.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2010
  20. Wakeboy1337

    Wakeboy1337 GTPGTPGTPGTPGTP

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    its always running?
     

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