Another Fuel Pump replacement (hole cut method) thread

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Guides (For How-to guides, NOT how-to ' started by Bizzy, Mar 3, 2008.

  1. Bizzy

    Bizzy Administrator Staff Member

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    The following info was taken from THIS website:

    DANGER-Performance of this task is at your own risk. You could cause serious injury or maybe even die. I accept no responsibility for your actions. Information and pictures from CcrazySHO on SHOforum. Note: I do not recommend the use of any power tools except for a drill (used very carefully) to create pilot holes. I have performed this procedure using tin snips to cut the floor and found that it worked well and was much safer. This minimizes the risk of blinding cutting through a fuel line or rupturing the fuel tank. Use common sense; if you don't feel comfortable with what you are doing, don't do it. Please note that these instructions were written with a Gen2 SHO (1992-1995) in mind.

    Tools required: 12" flat blade screw driver, hammer, Sharpie permanent marker, tape measurer, tin snips (recommended for novice SHO'ers), Skilsaw (recommended for anyone with the guts to use it!), safety goggles, work gloves of some type, small pick tool (small Phillips head screwdriver will work), straight edge to make lines, power drill and assorted drill bits (optional), 4 small wire ties, and a vacuum to clean up.

    1- Remove lower portion of rear seat by pushing in on the front, lower side of the seat. There is one hook and bar assembly on each side. The seat has the bar, the floor panel has the hook.

    2- Roll back sound deadening material( you can clip it up with your center adjustable seat belt).

    3- Roll back your carpet, and tuck it in to it self, out of the way.

    4- Measure from the center of the lower weather stripping, on the passenger side rear door. At 21" make a mark, and at 30" make a mark. Refer to picture.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    5- Measure from the hump, or edge where the floor pan rolls downward, 1" and make a mark. Also make a mark at 8". Refer to picture.

    [​IMG]

    6- Now that you have four individual marks, draw straight lines acting as a template where your cutting will be. You may not want to cut the rear most section, unless you have made a separate door to go in place of the stock flooring. Refer to picture. If you are using the Skilsaw as your cutting tool, skip to step 9.

    7- Take your screwdriver (long flat blade) and position the corner of the tip at the rear most corner of the template you made in step 6. You can start on either side, drivers or passenger. Now take the hammer, and hit the edge of the screwdriver that is opposite to the side on the metal. You should end up with small hole just wide enough to fit your screwdriver tip into. Take the screwdriver and wiggle it in the hole to make a large enough hole for the end of your tin snips.

    8- Cut along your lines with the tin snips. When you get to a corner, you may have to repeat the hammer and screwdriver technique to be able to make the turn with the tin snips. Seeing that you used the tin snips, skip to step 11.

    9- PUT ON SAFETY GOGGLES FOR STEP 9+10!!!!! Make sure to have your Skillsaw's cord out the way, so you or the saw do not become entangled. Now make your blade depth adjustment so that when looking at the the flat edge guide, you can see barely one tip on the saw sticking up. You should have roughly 1/16" of the blade showing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE BLADE IS NOT TOO FAR DOWN!!!! I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!

    10- Now first line up your blade with your first cut mark. I chose the starboard( right most ) line from my template. THIS IS THE SIDE WITH THE FUEL LINES RIGHT BELOW IT!!!! Make sure not to cut too far down. The forward most line, and the drivers side cuts have nearly nothing in the way. But still, DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP!!!! Refer to picture.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    11- Now that you have cut three sides out on your rectangle, it's time to peel this piece of metal back. Take your flat blade screw driver, and work gloves, and pry back the the floor plate. You should see the four fuel lines, and the one electrical connector right in your face. Refer to picture.

    12- Use your vacuum to clean up any metal shavings and dirt that could fall into the hole when you have your tank exposed.

    13- Take your long blade screwdriver and hammer again. There are little lips or edges that stick up on the outer ring of the fuel pump hanger. You need to lightly tap on these with the screwdriver on them, by hitting the screwdrivers handle. Keep rotating on each one, to keep it nice and even, not wanting to bend anything.

    14- Once this ring is removed, or loosened all the way. You must then disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump hanger. They each have a plastic clip, exactly like the one for your fuel filter, that holds them in place. You can pry these out with the screwdriver. Try not to break these, unless you have two more to replace them. Next take off the electrical harness that plugs into the top of the hanger. It simply unclips with two small tabs on the forward side.

    15- Your fuel pump hanger is ready to come out. Pull the hanger assembly up, while guiding it around the ballast tank inside the fuel tank. It all comes out in one piece.

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Phoenix

    Phoenix SHOHOLIC

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    Great find Beth :thumb:
     
  3. shocar

    shocar shocrazy

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    safer method

    Here's what I just did that seem to be a lot safer than cutting with the tank in place. You will need a transmission jack. Put the rear end of the car up on ramps. put the transmission jack in the center of the tank ,use a 2x4 piece of wood to make up for the car slant. Put the 2x4 under the wheels of the jack toward the rear of the car. Use 10 mm rachet socket and undo the fill tube brace from the chassis and also undo the 10 mm bolts at the fuel cap location. Take the cap off to do this. Now it has the play so it will not be damaged when you lower the tank. Now, jack up to the tank. Now you can un bolt the 13 mm bolts that hold the straps that hold the tank. Once you have that done, lower the tank about 3 to 4 inches. Now you can cut without having the gas tank and gas lines right where your cuttting. You can look up and see the clearance just to make sure the fuel lines are clear. This will only cost you an extra half hour - 45 minutes in time but you not be on pins and needles wondering how close you are to the gas lines. You might want to do this when there is less fuel in the tank as it is a bit heavy to move around. Mine was 3/4 full and I did not have much trouble putting it back in place. Everything else is the same as far as directions
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2008
  4. 93rev2sev

    93rev2sev SHO Member

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    Step one: Disconnect and remove battery.
     
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  5. itwonder

    itwonder SHO Member

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    Anybody consider what you are doing to the rear end crash worthiness of your car by cutting this opening between the passenger compartment and the fuel tank? I can just see a rear end crash splitting the tank open and sending fuel right into the passenger compartment through this hole. Crumpling sheetmetal is going to open your flap up regardless of how well you caulk it. Has Ford has sanctioned this method in a TSB?
     
  6. hawkeye18

    hawkeye18 Sorta cares

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    Holy cow. You seem like the kind of person that would be much happier in a Toyota Corolla.

    A) That sheetmetal isn't even 1/8" thick. If you get rear-ended hard enough that the rear seat sheetmetal buckles, you got WAY bigger problems than some fuel getting in the cabin. Even on the hardest-hit SHOs, the crumpling stops at or before the C-pillar (from the trunk).

    B) Why in the heck would you think that Ford would want anything to do with this, much less issue a TSB about it? It has been proven many, many times over that Ford couldn't give two shits about either this car, or anybody that drives it. As far as they're concerned, the more crash, the fewer they have to deal with. There's a reason we all call them F***.

    C) Pretty much every modification is going to reduce safety. You think that 50-pound sub box in the trunk isn't going to become a very thick, hard projectile going right for your head? Sure, but we do it anyway. I bolted mine down, but I doubt they'd hold in a big wreck. Screw it. I'm going to die somehow, some day, anyway, and I'll be damned if I'm going to spend my entire life thinking about every aspect of safety. As far as I'm concerned, this method takes time required to change a pump from a few hours to about five minutes. Certainly worth the 4% decrease in safety for me.
     
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  7. SHO92

    SHO92 SHO Member

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    Of course there is no TSB on this. They didn't put out TSBs for any other mods either. This "feature" is fairly common on other makes of cars. If you're really concerned with fuel entering the passengers area, you can make the panel bolt to the floor instead of just taping it up. RTV should be fine as well. The other makes have a flat rubber gasket, so the RTV is working in the same way.

    On top of all that, the fuel pump housing is still secured to the tank the same way it came from the factory. The tank will have to be ruptured first, before it gets into the passengers compartment. If the tank is ruptured, you'll have other things to worry about anyway, getting out and away from the car being first.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2008
  8. Racer X

    Racer X SHO Pilot

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    if I had to wager a guess, crashworthines probably wasn't a consideration when this mod was first thought of. That said, you would have to get hit in the rear end HARD in order to appreciably distort that panel, and rupture the fuel tank. If you ever did get hit that hard, and by some fluke chance there was a fire, you still wouldn't likely make it on the simple fact that if you're not already dead, you're probably injured enough that you don't have the mobility to get away from the car.

    That said, I didn't do the flap method, but cut a hole, and have a piece of sheet metal covering said hole, replete with screws and high temp RTV.
     
  9. St Louis SHO

    St Louis SHO Rollin' coal Staff Member

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    Have you thought how much rust can cause a vehicle not to absorb an impact? Cmon man....


     
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  10. 69crewcab

    69crewcab SHO Member

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    You might want to post for this, that your cutting the Passenger side of the seat pan.
    Its not mentioned
     
  11. frosho

    frosho WOLFMAN

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    uhh...

    ;)
     
  12. hawkeye18

    hawkeye18 Sorta cares

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    Guys, guys, use a dremel. Seriously, it works great! Yeah, it might be kinda slow, and yeah, you'll go through like 12 cutoff wheels, but the little 1" jobbers aren't thick enough to cut the fuel lines even when they're fresh. So there's no risk of fires and whatnot. And, the lines are nice 'n straight and whatnot. I just cut the front three sides open and it closes right back up. Perfect!
     
  13. shonutv8

    shonutv8 SHO Member

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    Will the hole in floor work on 91 sho is it the same measurements as gen II.

    Tony:thankyou:
     
  14. JohnKay

    JohnKay SHO Member

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    All the previous thread cautions apply so please read them and proceed at your own risk or peril.

    I used a 2" dremel wheel sold at Sears - cost like $5.00 and came two to a pack - designed for steel cutting....went through like slow steady butter...and yes there were plenty of sparks. The cutting wheel I used held up well and is still very usable and and still have a brand new spare. Just hold the dremel slow and steady and just break through the rear and two sides. cut a shallow crease in the front and use this to fold back the flap. The side where the fuel lines are the most vulnerable is on the passenger side cut. On my SHO there was just 3/8 inch maybe airspace between the floor and the hoses. also be sure to have a can of PB Blaster on hand to help loosen the ring that holds the pump in place. I found spraying and then using a large screw driver to alternately "tap" the ring from side to side to loosen it up before actually tapping on the tabs worked well. I first tried tapping on the tabs w/o PB Blaster or tapping the ring and succeeded only in barking up the tab. Lesson learned.

    Virago9577
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2010
  15. Shoman594

    Shoman594 Moderator Staff Member

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    best mod ever
     
  16. hawkeye18

    hawkeye18 Sorta cares

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    Srsly. The first time I replaced the fuel pump in my 94, I cut the flap out. I soon became very, very glad I did as the replacement failed after 250 miles. After I replaced it again (in about 5 minutes), and showed the car that it couldn't frustrate me by having that part break again, it gave 50,000 miles of faithful service before delivering the fuel that ran me into an impala, at the behest of my dumb-ass right foot.
     
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  17. GoofSHO

    GoofSHO HUGE Dreamer

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    Dropping the tank Ain't THAT hard.... That said... I'd rather cut a hole!!!
     
  18. SHOmethewayhome

    SHOmethewayhome BAD ROLE MODEL

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    personally i consider it a selling point of the car to have this mod done.

    i even had a new piece fabbed up and used hinges and latches and lots of insulating strips between the door and floor.

    it's pretty FTW if i may say so myself. makes changing the fuel pump super quick if the used one i sourced from OffroadSHO burns up or i decide for some dumb reason to boost the car and need to upgrade.
     
  19. AREA 91

    AREA 91 SHO Member Staff Member

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    This will work for any 86-95 taurus/sable/sho.
     
  20. whiteman_01

    whiteman_01 SHO Member

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    This mod is def FTW. I would hate to try and drop the tank on a rust belt SHO.
     
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